Kuih Lapis (Malaysian Steamed Rose Layer Cake)

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Place a metal steamer basket in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot (about 12" diameter) and pour in water to come 3"–5" up sides of pot. Bring to a boil; reduce heat as needed to maintain a simmer. (Alternatively, you can use a pot with a large bamboo steamer set on top.) Whisk ¾ cup (100 g) Thai or Vietnamese nonglutinous rice flour, ¾ cup (90 g) bleached cake flour, and ¾ cup (85 g) Thai or Vietnamese tapioca starch or tapioca flour in a large bowl to combine.

   Step 2

   Heat 2 fresh or frozen pandan leaves (if using), 1 cup (200 g) sugar, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1½ cups water in a medium pot over medium-high, whisking occasionally, until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, discard pandan leaves, and whisk in two 13.5-oz. cans Thai or Vietnamese unsweetened coconut milk (mixture will be lukewarm). If using 2 tsp. vanilla extract instead of pandan leaves, whisk into coconut syrup.

   Step 3

   Pour coconut syrup into dry ingredients and whisk vigorously until smooth (a few tiny lumps may remain—that’s okay). Strain batter through a fine-mesh sieve into another large bowl, pressing on any solids in the sieve with a ladle or spoon to help dissolve them (you want the batter to be lump-free). Reserve first large bowl (no need to rinse).

   Step 4

   Pour half of batter (3¼ cups; 806 g) back into reserved bowl (this will be for the white layers). Stir ⅓ cup rose syrup, 2 tsp. rose water, and 4 tsp. natural red food coloring (if using) into remaining batter (this will be your pink batter).

   Step 5

   Lightly coat bottom and sides of a 9"-diameter metal cake pan with vegetable oil. Line bottom with a parchment paper round and lightly brush parchment with oil. Place pan in steamer and let sit until slightly warm, about 3 minutes (this will help kick-start the cooking process when the batter is poured in).

   Step 6

   Stir white batter, then pour 1 cup (250 g) batter into cake pan (leave pan in the steamer while you add each layer to maximize efficiency—just be mindful of the steam when you remove the pot lid). Cover pot and steam batter until just set (the surface will leave only the barest indentation when lightly pressed with a spoon), 7–9 minutes. (There might be a thin sheen of fat and water on top—don’t let that deceive you into thinking it’s uncooked. If cooked too long, the layers might be rubbery.)

   Step 7

   Stir pink batter and gently pour 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. (280 g) batter over white layer; repeat cooking process.

   Step 8

   Continue layering and cooking process with remaining batters, alternating between white and pink, for a total of 6 layers. Adjust heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer and check water level in pot occasionally to make sure pan is not dry (if water level is low, add hot tap water and return to simmer before cooking additional layers; pan can remain in steamer). Remember to stir batter each time before pouring as the flours have a tendency to settle at the bottom of the bowls. After the final layer is set, remove pot from heat, uncover, and let sit until cake is cool enough to handle, about 45 minutes.

   Step 9

   Gently blot any liquid from surface of cake with a kitchen towel. Cover pan with a plate or plastic wrap and chill until cold, at least 2 hours. (Chilling helps the starch set and ensures cleaner slices when cutting.)

   Step 10

   To serve, invert pan onto a cutting board;  tap and wiggle pan to release cake (if it refuses to come out, run an offset spatula along the sides of the pan). Using an oiled knife or a sturdy plastic knife, slice cake into about 1" squares, rectangles, or diamonds (the rounded edges will be uneven; consider them a cook’s treat!). Arrange kuih on a platter and let sit about 30 minutes to come to room temperature before eating for optimal texture.

   Do ahead: Kuih lapis can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled in pan, or if cut, transfer pieces to an airtight container and chill.