Brazil: After two years of Covid-19, Rio's Carnival dedicated to resilience

The 'Marvelous City' did not hold back in roaring its delight when the parade kicked off on Friday. But while the pandemic may seem under control, the October presidential election, heralded as the one most fraught with danger, is already on everyone's mind.

By  (Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) correspondent)

Published on April 25, 2022, at 3:19 am (Paris), updated on August 25, 2022, at 6:08 pm

Time to 3 min.

Lire en français

Subscribers only

A samba dancer parades during the Carnival in Rio, April 22, 2022.

And suddenly, a roar. Deep, raucous, jubilant. Projected at the top of their lungs by a crowd in raptures, it rose and flew off into Rio de Janeiro's dark sky. It was a little after 10 p.m. on Friday, April 22, when the Imperatriz-Leopoldinense school of samba set off down the Sambadrome track, thereby kicking off the Carnival parades. And from the very first volleys of the "bateria" drums, the "Marvelous City" did not hold back in roaring its delight, in an exalted, almost triumphal clamor, which sounded like a return to life for a city and a country hit hard by two years of pandemic.

"Ready your heart!!!" the master of ceremonies screeched into the microphone. Instantly, a shiver ran through the "arquibancadas," the long concrete bleachers designed by (Brazilian architect) Oscar Niemeyer. On the faces of the thousands of spectators present, there was joy and there were even tears. For the Cariocas, there was no need to hide their emotions behind an anti-Covid mask: they have not been mandatory for weeks.

Infection rates are at an all-time low. After a canceled 2021 edition, and a 2022 edition that was long in doubt and then postponed until April, the city was ready for its big celebration. It looked like a drunken boat, ready to capsize with happiness.

Performers from the Sao Clemente samba school parade on a float during Carnival celebrations in Rio, April 23, 2022.

"It's wonderful, wonderful! So beautiful! So emotional! Everything is different but nothing has changed!" said Artur Franco, performer of the first "enredo," the song that gives the school parades their beat. Alongside this man with the powerful voice, dressed in immaculate costumes, the entire army of Brazilian happiness was standing at attention: queens, muses and princesses with feathers and beaded panties, Roman legionnaires armed with inflatable toucans, Marie-Antoinettes with purple wigs, dancing sunflowers, ballerinas, magicians, pharaohs... All dancing by 20-meter high floats, a marvel of painted fabrics and polystyrene, a baroque blend of ingenuity and resourcefulness.

Pride restored

For two nights of parades, on Friday and Saturday, just like in its greatest days, avalanches of feathers and glitter have returned on the 700-meter stretch of the Sambadrome. "Esplendor! Lindissimo! Gigantaaaaaaço!" ["Splendor! Gorgeous! Gigantiiiic!"] the stands shouted, celebrating the return of happy times and restored pride.

Several of the twelve schools competing in the Special Group (the most prestigious) chose to use their own history as a theme for the parade. This was the case for Vila Isabela, which paid tribute to the Carioca samba artist Martinho da Vila, and likewise for the popular Mangueira, in pink and green, which celebrated the memory of its "Gods" and founding fathers, Cartola, Jamelão and Mestre Delegado.

You have 46.31% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.

Lecture du Monde en cours sur un autre appareil.

Vous pouvez lire Le Monde sur un seul appareil à la fois

Ce message s’affichera sur l’autre appareil.

  • Parce qu’une autre personne (ou vous) est en train de lire Le Monde avec ce compte sur un autre appareil.

    Vous ne pouvez lire Le Monde que sur un seul appareil à la fois (ordinateur, téléphone ou tablette).

  • Comment ne plus voir ce message ?

    En cliquant sur «  » et en vous assurant que vous êtes la seule personne à consulter Le Monde avec ce compte.

  • Que se passera-t-il si vous continuez à lire ici ?

    Ce message s’affichera sur l’autre appareil. Ce dernier restera connecté avec ce compte.

  • Y a-t-il d’autres limites ?

    Non. Vous pouvez vous connecter avec votre compte sur autant d’appareils que vous le souhaitez, mais en les utilisant à des moments différents.

  • Vous ignorez qui est l’autre personne ?

    Nous vous conseillons de modifier votre mot de passe.

Lecture restreinte

Votre abonnement n’autorise pas la lecture de cet article

Pour plus d’informations, merci de contacter notre service commercial.