There are certain signature pieces Markus Lupfer almost always shows, including embellished bombers, (often lacy) track pants, and casual knits with quirky graphics, but today none of those were present. Instead, Lupfer presented a very focused and consistent series of silhouettes which—with the exception of a pair of shorts under a gray-and-white gingham jacket, a fitted knit dress, and an aside of patterned pantsuits—were classic fit and flare.
The interest came in the interplay of his textures and pattern, and the way he built versatile outfits that could be deconstructed. The foundation was slip dresses, either plain or sequined, which were layered under a series of plissé tulle dresses in Memphis-inspired pastels and pattern, with the odd scattering of extra embellishment. These dresses were sometimes served asymmetrically hemmed, other times with folding details on the chest, on occasion with a shiver or ruffling at the deep-V neckline, or with ribbons at the shoulder. When Lupfer pulled apart his silhouette to allow for separates, he countered the softness of the plissé skirt with a short-sleeved silver leather work shirt (over another sequined slip), or striped knits whose ribbing was meant to echo the plissé. The knot-them-yourself tulle-strap shoes were a pretty counterpoint to the argument above them. Lupfer said he imagined the pieces as romantic beachwear—which was stretching it a little—but the gentle push and pull of the elements in this collection was carefully considered and breezily effective.
