may-2011

MAY 2011 Hemisphe 

THREE PERFECT DAYS: ROME • THE 2011 ADVENTURE ISSUE • THE HEMI Q&A WITH BEAR GRYLLS 

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MAN VS. WILD’S BEAR GRYLLS IN THE HOT SEAT 

PLUS: THE FIAT 500, THE BILLIONAIRE BEHIND VITAMINWATER 

AND WHAT TO WEAR IN PARIS THIS SPRING

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PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK READ 

MAY 

CONTENTS 

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

66 

GET OUT! 

In our annual adventure issue, 

we take you down the raging 

rivers of Chile and into the 

canyons of Utah, from 

the Great Barrier Reef to the 

caves of Mexico, introducing 

you to some of the world’s 

great adventures. 

72 

ON THE EDGE 

Climber Alex Honnold, 25, has 

inspired both awe and outrage 

by performing some of the 

world’s most fearsome climbs 

without ropes or safety equipment. 

How high can he go? 

BY ALEX LOWTHER 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEITH LADZINSKI 

78 

THREE PERFECT 

DAYS: ROME 

Many a Roman holiday has 

been spoiled by overly grand 

ambitions. To get the most out 

of the Eternal City, take your 

time, and let yourself get lost in 

its labyrinth of beautiful streets 

and alleyways. And remember, 

no cappuccino after noon. 

BY JOE KEOHANE 

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK READ 

PILLAR OF STRENGTH A detail from 

the Trajan Column, erected in A.D. 113 

by the emperor Trajan to depict 

Rome’s victory against the Dacians.

6 

MAY 

CONTENTS 

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 

facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres 

WRITE TO US: 

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hemispheresmagazine.com 

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Brooklyn, NY 11201 

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ONTHE COVER: A view of the top 

of Guiseppe Momo’s 1932 spiral 

staircase in the Vatican Museums, 

Vatican City, Rome. 

Image by © Sylvain Sonnet/Corbis 

MAY 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 

8 COMMENTS 

11 CEO LETTER 

A word from Jeff Smisek. 

12 VOICES 

A message to fl yers. 

14 CONNECTIONS 

What’s new at United. 

THE WORLD 

17 DISPATCHES 

Checking in with the 

Monaco Grand Prix and 

Indianapolis 500; running a 

cheery 26.2 miles at Disney 

World; looking for John 

Lennon’s AWOL Ferrari in 

Paris; talking lipstick with 

Lady Gaga in New York 

23 STAY 

Where to stay, what 

to see, when to go. 

27 ROAD TRIP 

A little Fiat 500 tackles 

the Blue Ridge Parkway. 


30 WHAT TO WEAR 

A few tips on looking your 

best while strolling the 

boulevards of Paris. 

BY WAYMAN BANNERMAN 

32 HOW IT’S DONE 

Most cities are built over 

the course of many years. 

Not this one. 

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER 

35 FOOD & DRINK 

A look inside Moscow’s 

culinary renaissance. 

CULTURE 

39 THE BIG TEN 

Ralph Lauren’s cars, 

the Kentucky Derby and 

what else to watch, read 

and listen to this month. 

BOOMTOWN South Korea’s Songdo 

IDB, which is being built from scratch, 

will be one of the world’s biggest and 

greenest planned communities. 

56 THE BIG IDEA 

Meet the motormouth 

billionaire behind 

vitaminwater, Pirate’s Booty 

and Energy Kitchen. 

BY CRISTINA ROUVALIS 

60 THE FAN 

An incurable fanatic’s ode 

to the humble Wiffl e Ball. 


136 IN TRANSIT 

Who’s sitting next to you? 

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND 

ENTERTAINMENT 

AND INFORMATION 

101 Movies, Television and 

Audio Programming 

115 Route Maps and 

Terminal Diagrams 

44 THE HEMI Q&A 

Evading crocodiles with 132 Crossword and Sudoku 

Bear Grylls, daredevil host 

INTERNATIONAL 

of TV’s Man vs. Wild. 138 Beverages & Food 

GALE 

BY DAVID CARR 

OF 

49 GOODS 

Rugged watches, hardcore 

COURTESY 

bikes and one bodaciously 

expensive surfboard. 

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER PHOTOGRAPH

8 

? 

WHAT DO YOU THINK? 

WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 

HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 

Contributors 

WAYMAN 

BANNERMAN 

The contributing 

fashion editor and 

stylist (“French Twist,” 

page 30) grew up 

in Miami, where he 

eschewed the fl ashy 

local fl avor for vintage 

Hollywood. He has 

worked with GQ, Vanity 

Fair, L’Offi ciel, Golf 

Digest, Golf for Women 

and The New York Times, 

as well as on multiple 

ad campaigns and in 

costume design, short 

fi lm and celebrity 

dressing. 

KEITH LADZINSKI 

Colorado photographer 

Ladzinski’s work 

has appeared in 

National Geographic 

Adventure, Men’s 

Journal, Outside and in 

a monthly column in 

Rock and Ice magazine 

profi ling colorful 

athletes in the rockclimbing 

world (“On 

the Edge,” page 72). 

Ladzinski is also an 

adventure-photography 

instructor and enjoys 

teaching others how to 

dangle off of a cliff 

with a camera. 

Spring 

Cleaning 

MAY IS OUR FAVORITE MONTH. 

The long winter is past us (in the 

Northern Hemisphere, at least), 

and we’re no longer suspicious 

of warm April days that can turn 

wintry at the drop of a hat. So 

we think it’s a perfect time for 

Hemispheres to do a li le spring 

cleaning. Starting with the words 

you’re reading right now, we’ve refreshed the look and feel of the magazine, making 

it brighter, bolder and (perhaps) even a li le more sophisticated. Most of the 

familiar sections readers have grown to love—Three Perfect Days, Dispatches and 

The Hemispheres 

staff on lunch break 

in New York City. 


The Hemi Q&A, for instance—are still here, but we’ve added 

new sections and updated the old ones. We think it’ll make 

the magazine, and your fl ight, an even be er experience. 

CRISTINA ROUVALIS 

Rouvalis has written 

for Inc., AARP Bulletin, 

Pittsburgh Quarterly and 

other magazines. When 

she’s not reporting on 

tycoons (“The King 

of Queens,” page 56) 

the fanatically light 

packer enjoys traveling 

to Ecuador, Argentina, 

Colombia and anywhere 

else she can practice 

her Spanish. She 

also loves the Greek 

islands and Italy, but is 

always game to leave 

Pittsburgh and visit just 

about anywhere. 

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mike Guy 

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Joe Keohane 

SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack 

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler 

FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti 

EDITORIAL INTERN Andrew O’Reilly 

ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright 

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR 

Tim Vienckowski 

PHOTO EDITORS Moya McAllister, 

Erin Giunta 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

Jay Cheshes, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe, 

Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, 

Adam K. Raymond, Matthew Thompson 

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS 

Claire Benoist, Peter James Field, 

Oliver Jeff ers, Sasha Nialla, Alex Nabaum, 

Steve Stankiewicz 

EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR 

Michael Keating 

U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

Orion Ray-Jones 

Ink, 68 Jay Street, 

Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 

Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 

editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 

hemispheresmagazine.com 

WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi 

ADVERTISING 

U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR 

Stephen Andrews 

VP STRATEGY AND BUSINESS 

DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander 

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS 

Danny Litton, David Low, David Levy, Robbin 

Gordon, Caryn Taynis, Marco Fernandez 

NORTHEAST ADVERTISING DIRECTOR 

Brian McLaughlin 


Scott Stone, Stu Opfer, Paul Gillespie, 

Karen Couture, Trey Marshall, Dave 

Madonia 

WESTERN U.S. ADVERTISING DIRECTOR 

Robyn Davies 


Dorie Leo, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller 

HAWAII Robert Wiegand 

EUROPE Angus Urqhart 

ASIA Jacqueline Ho 

LATIN AMERICA Alejandro Salas 

SOUTH AMERICA Olivier Capoulade 

PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey 

Tel: +1 678-553-8091 

PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS 

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Ink (sales), Capital Building, 

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Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 

INK 

CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke 

COO Hugh Godsal 

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie 

HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is 

strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this 

publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the 

prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices 

and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions 

expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the 

Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not 

accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither 

United, its subsidiaries nor affi liates guarantees the accuracy, 

completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these 

facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment 

advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security 

or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a 

professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are 

supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines 

or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this 

publication does not imply endorsement of that company or 

its products or services by United Airlines.

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We have. 

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Includes destinations served by United Air Lines, Inc., 

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CEO LETTER 

Moving Foward 

Bringing together the best that United and Continental have to off er. 

WELCOME ABOARD, and on behalf of my more than 80,000 

coworkers, thank you for choosing us for your fl ight today. 

We appreciate your business. 

While our Continental and United subsidiaries will 

continue to operate as two separate airlines until we achieve 

our single operating certifi cate from the Federal Aviation 

Administration, we’re making good progress on aligning our 

products and services. For example, we recently announced 

that we’re keeping Economy Plus (a favorite with our United 

subsidiary’s customers) at our United subsidiary and rolling 

it out to our Continental subsidiary’s fl ights beginning next 

year. In addition, we recently announced our intention to 

partner with infl ight entertainment provider LiveTV to off er 

infl ight Wi-Fi via the more robust Ka-band beginning next 

year. We plan to off er the service on more than 200 domestic 

Boeing 737 and 757 aircra equipped with DIRECTV. 

While we work to integrate our product, we’re staying 

focused on our most important goal: providing clean, safe and 

reliable transportation to our customers. In fact, in 2010, we 

were the most reliable among the major U.S. network carriers 

for both on-time arrivals and completion factor. I want to 

thank all of my coworkers for doing an excellent job last year. 

Our success is thanks to their hard work and professionalism, 

and I appreciate everything they do for the new United. 

Thanks again for fl ying with us today. 

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES 

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • M AY 2011 11

12 

Star Treatment 

Global Services and International First Class Lounge Customer 

Service Agent Kathy De Rouen treats everyone like a VIP. 

BY PETE RAPALUS 

“TREAT EVERYONE LIKE A VIP” 

The movers and shakers that pass 

through the International First Lounge 

(IFL) in Los Angeles International Airport 

range from paparazzi-dodging 

celebrities to the slightly more anonymous 

road-weary travelers—and they 

all have at least two things in common. 

One, they look to Global Services/ 

IFL Customer Service Agent Kathy De 

Rouen and her colleagues to anticipate 

their travel and relaxation needs before 

and a er international and p.s.® fl ights 

in a way that keeps them coming back 

to United. Second, while they o en fl y 

more in a month than most of us fl y in 

years, their long careers as sky warriors 

all began with one fl ight. 


VOICES 

What keeps many high-volume and 

high-profi le fl yers loyal to United at 

LAX is the way De Rouen and her fellow 

agents solve every conceivable issue 

with charm, effi ciency and creativity 

valued by VIPs. 

When De Rouen is out on the concourse 

or working the lobby, LAX Hub 

Operations Director Mike Mueller says, 

she treats everyone as if the very future 

of United depends on their satisfaction. 

“Her service is consistently exemplary,” 

says Mueller. “When she handles 

high-profi le customers, she does it with 

grace and tact. And yet she treats all customers 

as if they are family.” 

“Nobody achieves Global Services 

status overnight, or suddenly decides 

Kathy De Rouen in the International 

First Class Lounge at Los Angeles 

International Airport. 

to fl y United fi rst class all the time without 

good reasons,” De Rouen, a 27-year 

veteran, says. “When I help a traveler 

in the terminal, someone who may be 

fl ying for the fi rst time, I know someday 

I could be welcoming him into the Red 

Carpet Club—or watching them check 

in at another airline’s premier lane.” 

Rick Roberts, who escorts the rich 

and famous through LAX for a leading 

“meet and greet” company, says people 

like De Rouen make United his favorite 

airline with which to interact. “The customer 

service is superior at United, and 

for the elite travelers, Kathy and the 

others here really make my job easier.” 

De Rouen actually began her career 

as a reservations agent with Continental 

in 1978. She moved to United in 1983 

and went from reservations to face-toface 

customer service in 1990. For years 

she was assigned to Special Services, 

acting as a concierge for high-profi le 

customers in what evolved into today’s 

Global Services. 

“I loved the phone sales experience, 

but I really enjoy working directly with 

customers.” Of the merger, De Rouen 

says, “I think the high-end customers are 

going to love it. All the new routes, the 

combined mileage programs, the travel 

opportunities are just over the top.” 

When she’s not working, De Rouen 

spends time riding horses with her 

husband at a ranch near Bishop, Calif. 

She also trades stories with customers 

about their children and points 

with pride to her two grown kids, one 

a renowned chef and the other a documentary 

fi lmmaker. 

“When you really love something, 

you have that passion about it, and it 

shows,” she says. “Sometimes I know 

right away when I’ll get along well 

with someone just by their boots. I 

think, ‘A horse person!’” You don’t need 

a 10-gallon hat and dusty boots to get 

VIP treatment from Kathy, but it might 

not hurt either.

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14 

Growing 

Together 

More progress on 

aligning our products. 

WE CONTINUE TO MAKE progress on aligning 

the products of our United and Continental 

subsidiaries while we also work toward 

achieving our single operating certifi cate 

from the Federal Aviation Administration. 

Earlier this year, we announced the decision 

to maintain and expand Economy Plus across 

the combined fl eet, which marks a signifi cant 

milestone in the product integration of United 

and Continental. United’s popular Economy 

Plus® seating will expand to Continental 

aircra beginning in 2012, providing more 

opportunities for customers to enjoy 

additional legroom and comfort. 

Our customers value Economy Plus and 

the additional personal space that it provides. 

Customers who sit in Economy Plus tell us 

they are signifi cantly more satisfi ed with 

their travel experience, as are travelers who 


CONNECTIONS 

choose other options that let them tailor 

their travel to their liking. The decision 

demonstrates our commitment to providing 

innovative options to customers that enable 

them to customize their travel experience 

with superior products they value. 

Our Continental subsidiary recently also 

executed a le er of intent with infl ight entertainment 

provider LiveTV to off er infl ight 

Wi-Fi via Ka-band beginning next year. The 

company plans to off er the service on more 

than 200 domestic Boeing 737 and 757 aircra 

equipped with DIRECTV®, providing onboard 

connectivity and more than 95 channels of 

live television programming to customers 

fl ying within the continental United States. 

Ka-band will off er higher transmission 

speeds for more extensive onboard connection 

capabilities, including browsing 

websites, sending and receiving emails and 

downloading fi les. United Airlines currently 

off ers infl ight internet service on 14 aircra , 

including on all p.s.® fl ights linking New York 

Kennedy with Los Angeles and San Francisco. 

From Economy Plus to our planned 

expansion of infl ight Wi-Fi services, these 

developments underscore our commitment 

to providing you with the customized 

options you want to create the best travel 

experience possible. 

ASK THE PILOT 

With Captain Mike Bowers 

Q: How can pilots 

“make up time” when 

they are late? 

A: Our pilots are given 

four priorities. The fi rst 

is safety, the second is 

customer comfort, the 

third is to operate on 

schedule and the last is 

to operate effi ciently. 

Ideally we would like 

to do all four on every 

fl ight. If we can provide 

a safe, comfortable, ontime 

fl ight by fl ying at 

the most fuel effi cient 

(slower) speed, then 

we will do so. Just as 

with your car, the faster 

you go, the more fuel 

you use. Since being on 

time is a higher priority 

than saving fuel, we 

fl y at a faster (and less 

economical) speed when 

we are running late in 

order to arrive as close 

to the scheduled arrival 

time as we can. 

PHOTOGRAPH: IMAGES SOURCE/GETTY IMAGES

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THE WORLD 

FACTS TRENDS NEWS 

MEET THE (BRITISH) VOICE OF THE INDY 500 

INDIANAPOLIS, IND.—A smartly 

dressed Donald Davidson is taking 

in the Indianapolis Motor Speedway 

from the ninth fl oor of the Pagoda, the 

towering structure in the center of the 

track. He walks along the perimeter of 

the room and stops at a seat smack-dab 

in front of the starting line—his seat. 

The track’s only full-time historian, 

Davidson is also a well-known raceday 

radio personality—a post he’s held 

since the mid-’60s. Which is a li le odd, 

considering he has a British accent. 

“I grew up in Salisbury, in the southern 

part of England, and was always 

INDY VS. MONACO 

On May 29, two of the biggest auto racing 

events on the planet, the Indianapolis 500 and 

the Formula 1 Grand Prix in Monaco, will be held. 

Here’s how they stack up. –ANDREW O’REILLY 

fascinated with Grand Prix racing,” he 

says. “I was fascinated by American life, 

too, and I wanted to check it out.” 

In 1964, Davidson flew to Chicago 

and caught a bus to Indianapolis just 

in time for the race. Prior to his arrival, 

he’d been so nervous about securing a 

good seat that he’d sent numerous letters 

to the ticket offi ce. So many in fact 

that he was immediately recognized by 

the ladies behind the counter—who 

were also taken by his accent. 

“The Beatles had just performed 

on Ed Sullivan, so everyone was 

interested in anything British,” he 

quips. His accent, combined with an 

encyclopedic knowledge of race facts, 

endeared him to offi cials, and he spent 

his holiday chatting up drivers in 

racecar garages. The following year, he 

came back to Indianapolis for good. 

The rest is history. 

This month marks the 100th 

anniversary of the race, and no one 

is more excited than Davidson. “I can’t 

wait to see old friends,” he says. “We 

are inviting every living participant, 

regardless if they won or lost. It is 

going to be a big reunion.” 

–KATIE MORELL 

ILLUSTRATION BY GAVIN POTENZA HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • M AY 2011 17

ORLANDO, FLA. 

An 

Earful of 

Cheer 

Disney does 

marathons the only 

way it knows how. 

DISPATCHES 

BEFORE THE START OF THE RACE, John Phelan makes a frantic predawn check 

of the route of the marathon he helps direct, making sure that everything is 

ready. He passes the water stations, the medical stops and the neatly aligned 

traffi c cones that will channel runners in the right direction. Then his trained 

eye spots some 11th-hour snags: Winnie the Pooh is on the wrong side of the 

road. There are pirates in the parking lot. And the accordion players, stilt 

walkers, high school bands and trampoline artists all look as though they could 

use some last-minute motivation. 

“Lots of energy, guys! Keep it going! Pump these people up!” Phelan shouts 

from his bicycle as he makes his way along the 26.2-mile course of the Walt 

Disney World Marathon, just barely ahead of the nearly 17,500 runners who 

have made this curious combination of entertainment and competition one of 

the most popular marathons in America. “It’s like pu ing on a big show, except 

spread out over 26.2 miles,” says Phelan. 

Held every January, the marathon runs through all four of the Disney World 

theme parks and past characters in costume shouting encouragement (Snow 

White: “I’m so proud of you!”). It’s big business for Disney, fi lling the parks with 

110,000 visitors during an otherwise slow season. There’s a half marathon too, 

making this the largest combination race weekend in the nation. The success 

has prompted Disney to add more races, including a Princess Half Marathon 

for women in February, and half marathons at Disneyland and Disney World 

each fall. All sell out far in advance, despite comparatively high entry fees. “We 

literally take over Walt Disney World,” says Michelle Maready, who also helps 

direct the races. “We overwhelm the property with runners.”—JON MARCUS 

18 MAY 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

20 

THE WORLD || Dispatches 

BRUSSELS 

Swap Meet 

Minutes before midnight, BOZAR, 

Brussels’s fine arts center, is 

packed to capacity with museumgoers 

wielding stacks of sticky 

notes. They scribble messages 

and place them all around 

the works of art on display. 

“Two nights in Marrakech,” 

the notes read, “baking 

lessons,” “Eurail pass,” 

“life insurance,” “a fl ight to 

wherever you want.” 

Truc Troc, literally “Stuff Swap” in French, is an annual Belgian 

art happening in which artists trade their paintings, sculptures 

and photographs for goods and services off ered by local art lovers. 

After a three-decade hiatus, the show returned in 2004, and 

it has become larger and more prestigious with each passing year. 

For the February 2011 show, a jury selected 160 artists out of more 

than 500 applicants to participate in the weekendlong event. 

Anatoly, a self-professed Japanophile, is bidding 11 bento 

lunches on a Japanese fl ag that Christopher Coppers created 

out of shredded magazines. Adrian off ers a guitar and 10 hours 

of lessons for an ethereal photograph of a tree by Pierre Moreau. 

Artist Yuko Nakaya says she isn’t preoccupied with what she 

might receive in exchange for her zen sculpture of mirror and 

sand. She decided to participate after going last year because 

“audiences weren’t passive, but active viewers selecting what 

they wanted.” Serge Vanderheyden, one of the organizers, 

agrees. “Bartering is a chance to attract someone who doesn’t 

know art or have much money to interact with an artist,” he says. 

With her mom and aunt in tow, 13-year-old Alice is busy fl itting 

from one piece to another, leaving a pink trail of heart-shaped 

Post-Its she brought from home. She is off ering tennis lessons, 

mix CDs of her favorite songs and even a diary. Asked why she 

is bidding on so many pieces, she answers, simply: “I love art.” 

May 6-8 

SEOUL • Celebrate the Buddha’s 

birthday with lantern parades, a 

street festival and guided meditation 

during downtime at the Lotus 

Lantern Festival. llf.or.kr 


May 20-22 

HOUSTON • The largest and oldest 

event of its kind, the Houston 

Art Car Parade involves a procession 

of whimsically tricked-out 

autos, plus three full days of fun 

and folk art. orangeshow.org 

—CHANEY KWAK 

May 24-28 

NEW ORLEANS • Rub elbows 

with Paul Prudhomme and partake 

in the best food in one of the 

best culinary cities in the U.S. at 

the New Orleans Wine and Food 

Experience. nowfe.com 

PARIS • HELLO, GOODBYE 

There was an empty space at the Grand 

Palais where John Lennon’s blue 1965 

Ferrari was supposed to be. At auction 

house Bonhams’ February car auction, 

the music legend’s fi rst ride was to 

be the star a raction. But then the 

anonymous owner got cold feet. “When 

the day looms, some people think to 

themselves, ‘Crikey, am I doing the right 

thing?’” says James Knight, head of 

Bonhams’ motoring department. 

The owner le six Ferraris and four 

Rolls-Royces in the auction but couldn’t 

part with the car Lennon bought for 

around $3,250 a er ge ing his license at 

age 24. Bonhams had expected it to go 

for up to $276,000. Instead, it was back 

in England while about 90 other cars, 

including a rare 1933 Buga i Type 51 

that went for $1.5 million, were 

gaveled down. 

The change of heart 

wasn’t cheap: Bonhams 

“withdrawal fee” cost the 

owner about $36,000. 

Rupert Banner, a Bonhams 

vice president 

who has sold about 30 

of the owner’s cars over 

the last 15 years, says 

the man may have been 

infl uenced by the fact 

that selling the Lennon 

Ferrari would have completely 

liquidated his 

fl eet of collectible cars 

and le him without a 

single trophy. Banner 

tried his best to convince 

the Beatles fan to go through with 

the sale, but to no avail. “It wasn’t 

fi nancial,” says Knight. “It was heartversus-head 

turmoil.” 

—JOSHUA SAUL 

June 10-12 

ALTHORP, ENGLAND • With all 

eyes on the royals, the Spencer 

family (as in Princess Di’s folks) 

hosts the Althorp Literary Festival. 

Enjoy readings, plays and 

musical performances on the 

beautiful estate. althorp.com PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF THE EVENTS (4), TERRY RICHARDSON STUDIO (LADY GAGA)

Gaga for Lipstick 

Lady Gaga debuts her new shade 

at the Trump Soho. 

The scene outside the pent- 

NEW YORK CITY 

house on the 44th floor of 

Soho’s Trump Hotel is surprisingly 

calm, with sleek, headse ed publicists and fashion 

writers mingling lazily over cut cucumber sandwiches. 

When the doors open to reveal Lady Gaga, curled in a 

plush chair like an alien fl ower in a custom-made Thierry 

Mugler latex pantsuit, there’s none of the jockeying that 

typically accompanies a Gaga sighting. The reporters here 

have been instructed by her handlers that they’ll get 15 

minutes with the star, during which time they are to stick 

to one topic and one topic only. That topic is lipstick. 

“I heard there are a couple of British fashion mag editors 

here who are going to try to stray off -topic,” says a 

black-suited woman seriously to the publicist next to her. 

“We’re going to have to be on our game,” says the other. 

Inside, the performer, looking a li le tired from her 

audacious egg-borne Grammy performance days earlier, 

quietly talks up the lipstick she designed for Viva Glam, 

MAC cosmetics’ AIDS relief program. “I wanted to create 

a nonjudgmental beige,” she says. “A color that a person 

of any race or any background could wear. My mother 

is wearing it right now.” 

Gaga is serious about AIDS prevention. She’s had a few 

friends fall victim to the disease, she says. Still, a day of 

interviews so soon a er a major performance takes its 

toll. This is the fi rst time she is participating in a Viva 

Glam campaign on her own—last year she had ’80s icon 

Cyndi Lauper with her. “We would laugh our pants off the 

whole time,” Gaga says. “That’s the only thing that’s hard 

about this year. I don’t get to crack jokes with her during 

all these interviews.” —JACQUELINE DETWILER 

Dispatches || THE WORLD 

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • MONTH 2011 00

Visit the app store on your smartphone, 

download a QR Code Reader and scan 

this barcode to see our video. 

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Vibrant color, energy and lots to gain from our history, culture and the way we do business. 

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©2011 by San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau. 

MEETINGS.VISITSANANTONIO.COM 866-517-7771

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE RITZ-CARLTON 

Nights 

at the 

Museums 

These hotels have collections 

so vast that art lovers 

won’t have to leave the lobby. 

STAY 

SINGAPORE’S Ritz-Carlton Millenia, above, 

is guarded by unlikely sentinels: two life-size 

fi berglass statues of Chairman Mao made 

by prominent Chinese sculptor Zhu Wei. 

They off er a glimpse of the vast collection 

STELLA! Cornucopia, 

by the sculptor Frank Stella, 

is one of 4,200 pieces in 

the collection of the Ritz- 

Carlton Millenia. 

of pop art housed inside this sprawling Kevin Roche–designed hotel, 

including museum-grade works by luminaries like David Hockney, 

Andy Warhol, Ellsworth Kelly, Henry Moore and dozens of others. The 

Ritz-Carlton hired California-based curator Elizabeth Weiner to amass 

the art, and the result is a collection that now numbers 4,200 pieces, 

with an estimated value of $5 million. 

As guests pass Zhu’s fi berglass statues and enter the lobby, they’re 

greeted by Cornucopia, Frank Stella’s tangle of winding planks that 

was cra ed by French boat builders and suspended from the hotel’s 

ceiling. The lobby and mezzanine are dominated by surprising pieces, 

like Dale Chihuly’s kaleidoscopic glass creation Sunrise and colorful 

canvases by Rainer Gross, Hockney and Indonesian painter Nyoman 

Gunarsa. Outside, the seven-acre gardens are lined with even more 

pieces. Imagine MoMA in NYC, then imagine you’re having a swim in 

its pool and spending the night. 


24 

THE WORLD || Stay 

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A quaint countryside inn is home 

to a world-class art collection. 

This boutique property in Provence 

can’t help but be charming. It’s an 

old farmhouse that’s been operating 

as a café and hotel since the 1920s, 

the type of place where sun-dappled 

outdoor tables under fi g trees beckon 

to travelers hungry for Provençal 

cuisine. But unlike the many other 

charming hotels in the French 

countryside, the Colombe d’Or also 

has a museum’s worth of original 

art by the likes of Marc Chagall, 

Alexander Calder and Joan Miró, who 

were all guests in the 1950s and many 

of whom paid for their stay with the 

pieces they created. The collection is 

large enough for the hotel to actually 

keep artwork in rotation, and new 

works are continually added, so keep 

an eye on what the guy at the table 

next to you is sketching on his napkin. 

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE HOTELS

Dallas 

THE JOULE 

Everything’s bigger in Texas, 

including the Polaroids. 

This bank turned ultra-luxe hotel is owned by oil man Tim 

Headington, who wanted his property to have a top-notch 

art collection. He teamed up with curator John Runyon and 

acquired Andy Warhol’s Electric Chair and David Levinthal’s 

large-scale Polaroids of swimsuited Barbies, which complement 

pieces on loan from Headington’s personal collection. 

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Diff erent artists decorated 

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keyboard keys. You’ll fi nd another large-scale original 

piece that climbs the glass elevator with you, and each 

fl oor has a collection of works by a diff erent artist. Who 

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BILTMORE 

ESTATE 

At 175,000 

square feet, 

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home in 

the U.S. 

ASHEVILLE 

CRAGGY 

GARDENS 

ASHEVILLE, N.C. 

Taking 

the High 

Road 

A li le Fiat 500 goes 

a long way on the Blue 

Ridge Parkway. 


MOUNT 

MITCHELL 

The highest 

point east of 

the Mississippi 

(6,684 feet). 

ROAD TRIP 

LINN COVE 

VIADUCT 

Finished in 1983, 

the last part of 

the Parkway to 

be completed. 

221 

LINVILLE 

FALLS 

BLOWING 

ROCK 

ADA’S 

COTTAGES 

BANDANA’S 

BAR-B-QUE 

BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY 

• Started in 1935 as a project of the 

Works Progress Administration, 

under Franklin D. Roosevelt. 

• Completed in 1983 near Grandfather 

Mountain in North Carolina. 

• 469 miles long, running from North 

Carolina to Virginia. 

• More than 30,000 acres of land 

around the road is protected by the 

Conservation Trust for North Carolina. 

0 5 10 miles 

A WOMAN’S EYES were locked on my car as she walked across the lot 

of the gas station outside of Asheville, in the foothills of the Blue Ridge 

Mountains. Nothing new there. Since I’ve arrived, everyone I’ve come 

across either stares at this pearl-colored, escape-pod-looking automobile 

or asks about it. The woman wanders over. “Can I just say,” she says, “that 

I just love your car?” I tell her I’m fond of the 500 too but worry it’s a li le… 

li le. “I can see that it might be a li le girly for you,” she says sweetly. 

“But gosh, I just love it.” 

The Fiat 500, which debuted stateside at the 2011 Chicago Auto Show, 

is a retooled version of the Fiat Cinquecento, a car that has been popular 

abroad for fi ve decades. But while the original was boxy and utilitarian, 

this one is more styled, even futuristic, and off ers options for American 

drivers looking for an effi cient car without having to pilot a sardine can 

on wheels. So why North Carolina? I wanted to take the 500 out of its 

urban comfort zone and see how it played with the big hills and sharp 

turns of the famed Blue Ridge Parkway. 

I start my day at the Inn on the Biltmore Estate, a beautifully situated 

hotel on the 8,000-acre grounds of Biltmore, the gargantuan mansion 

N 


28 

THE WORLD || Road Trip 

Price: Starting at $15,500 

THE FIAT 500 

Engine: 1.4-liter in-line four-cylinder 

BELLS AND WHISTLES 

Performance: 101 horsepower and 

98 lb.-ft. of torque. 

Effi ciency: Up to 38 mpg highway, and 30 mpg in the city with fi ve-speed 

standard transmission; 34/27 with six-speed automatic. 

Options: The “Pop” we drove had a leather interior, a BOSE stereo system with 

satellite radio, a power sunroof, heated seats and 15-inch chrome-accented 

wheels, on top of standard options like the cool eco:Drive application, which 

allows drivers to collect data on their 500’s performance and adjust their 

driving styles to maximize the car’s mileage. 

built by George Vanderbilt and 

completed in 1895. Vanderbilt, the 

grandson of industrialist Cornelius 

Vanderbilt, had fallen in love with 

the area and made it his home. As I sit 

on the patio with coff ee, watching the 

fog burn off the surrounding hills, I see 

his point. 

Leaving Asheville, I drive to the 

parkway entrance. Work on the road, 

a 469-mile byway running through Virginia 

and North Carolina, began during 

the Great Depression in 1935 and took 

nearly 50 years to fi nish. About 25 miles 

SIZE-WISE 

How the li le 500 

stacks up against 

other popular 

modes of transit. 


in, I pull over at Craggy Gardens, which 

in early summer is like a sprawling carpet 

of violet rhododendrons that seems 

to reach all the way through the mountains 

to Tennessee. The parkway is full 

of such scenic overlooks. One moment 

you’re surrounded by trees and grass, 

the next you’re on the edge of the Linn 

Cove Viaduct, 4,400 feet above sea level, 

in the foggy, blue-tinged Appalachian 

Mountains, struggling to keep your 

eyes on the road. 

The 500 performs admirably 

throughout. It handles the sharp 

curves with aplomb and mounts all 

but the steepest inclines with little 

trouble. More important, though small 

(Fiat calls it a four-seater, but unless 

your third and fourth passengers are 

cats, it’s effectively a two), it doesn’t 

feel cramped. I keep forge ing that I’m 

driving such a small car, at least until 

I notice that people are pointing and 

staring at me. 

The Blue Ridge is meant to be 

driven slowly and savored, but even 

at a modest speed, all those curves can 

get tiring. So I pick a random exit and 

turn off near Linville Falls and drive 

Route 221 through a string of picturesque 

towns best known for growing 

Christmas trees. All around are rolling 

hills bristling with li le fi r trees and 

the occasional shop clu ered with 

rocking chairs and barrels of addictive 

brine-boiled peanuts. 

I end my journey up north, dropping 

off my bags at one of Ada’s Co ages, a 

cozy, eclectic, two-story octagonal vacation 

house with great views in Blowing 

Rock, N.C. Realizing I’ve neglected to eat 

anything save boiled peanuts all day, I 

venture a few miles over to the town of 

Boone, home of Appalachian State University, 

and take a booth at Bandana’s 

Bar-B-Que for a mind-blowing plate of 

ribs. It crosses my mind that if I keep 

eating like this, ge ing back into the 

500 could pose a challenge. Does that 

stop me from ordering more? No. It 

does not. 

Executive editor JOE KEOHANE is in need 

of a good recipe for boiled peanuts. 

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MONTH 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 

WHAT TO WEAR: PARIS 

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Spring in the City of Light is all about casual chic with a twist. 

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32 

1 

4 

City. Slicker. 

South Korea’s Songdo International 

Business District isn’t just the largest 

planned community in the world, it’s 

also one of the greenest. The massive 

undertaking includes eco-friendly 

waste and transportation systems, 

the tallest high-rise in the country and 

dozens of LEED-certifi ed buildings. 

Here’s how they did it. 

WANT MORE? 

Download our 

iPad app. 



SOUTH KOREA 

HOW IT’S DONE 

3 

1 

Nearly all of Songdo IBD’s 1,500 acres are 

built on 500 million tons of sand from the 

bottom of the ocean. There’s just one 

major problem: Salty earth kills trees. 

So designers have crafted a “geotextile,” 

a giant semipermeable sheet that 

separates the topsoil from the ocean 

sand, keeps plants hydrated and harvests 

extra rainwater for alternative uses. 

2 One resource the coastal city has in abundance 

is seawater. Designers will fi ll the 

city’s artifi cial canal with saltwater instead 

of fresh in order to save the good stuff for 

residents’ living needs. The seawater is 

pumped through the canal using gravity 

and wind turbines, and will also be used 

to cool buildings. 

3 The 68-story Northeast Asia Trade 

Tower overlooks “Central Park” in an 

innovative way: The base is square, but 

as the building rises, each fl oor is a slightly 

diff erent shape, culminating in a triangular 

roof. Because square shapes and triangular 

shapes have diff erent centers of gravity, the 

eff ect is that the top of the tower actually 

angles out over the foliage. 

4 

2 

Whereas other metropolitan areas 

waste energy on burning trash or trucking 

it out to landfi lls, Songdo IBD sucks 

refuse through a presorted pneumatic 

waste system. It arrives at a collection 

facility where recyclables are removed 

and some of the waste is incinerated to 

heat water for residences. 

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF GALE INTERNATIONAL

Leadership can 

often be measured 

in a breath of air. 

Yale-New Haven Hospital is the primary teaching hospital of Yale School 

of Medicine. Respiratory services at Yale-New Haven were ranked 20th 

by U.S.News & World Report in 2010-11. 

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ROB WHITE/PHOTOLIBRARY 

MOSCOW 

Caviar 

Dreams 

Russia’s prized sturgeon roe 

is back on the market. 

BY ANDREW O’REILLY 

FOOD & DRINK 

IT’S BEEN nine long years since Russia slapped a 

ban on sturgeon caviar exports from the Caspian 

Sea. The country was acting in the interest of the 

fi sh—its population was in precipitous decline— 

EGGCELLENT Sturgeon 

caviar served with a more 

commonplace Russian 

staple: the potato. 

but that was cold comfort for gourmands who had to fork over $100-plus 

an ounce for the pearly black fi sh eggs. This year, with farm stock at a 

healthy level, the ban has been li ed, and 330 pounds of sturgeon caviar 

are now being exported to the European Union. 

Like black truffl es, what makes this caviar so prized is its rarity. Ninety 

percent of the world’s sturgeon reside in the Caspian Sea, and the fi sh don’t 

lay eggs until they are 15 years old. Of the three types of caviar derived 

from sturgeon, beluga is the largest and most expensive; osetra has an 

assertive and nu y fl avor; and sevruga—the most aff ordable, at around 

$50 an ounce—has a briny taste and small eggs. 

Purists say caviar should be served in a nonmetallic bowl fi lled with 

ice to prevent oxidation, and then consumed with toast or crackers. But 

there’s no wrong way to eat it. To feel more Russian, try it with sour cream, 

blini and a shot of ice-cold Russian vodka. 


36 

THE WORLD || Food & Drink 

GEORGIA ON 

THEIR MINDS 

Moscow’s elite pack the 

Tatler Club for a taste of the 

neighboring country. 

The exotic foods of Georgia are as 

beloved in Moscow as Indian curry is 

in London. The following springtime 

recipe for a simple grilled chicken 

tabaka comes from the Tatler Club, a 

Moscow hotspot notable for its highfl 

ying clientele. 

Chicken Tabaka 

Ingredients: 

1 Cornish hen, deboned (Ask your 

butcher to do this.) 

2 cloves garlic, minced 

1 tsp. fi nely chopped fresh rosemary, 

plus 2 sprigs for pan 

2 Tbsp. olive oil 

Lettuce leaves and homemade adjika 

sauce (recipe follows) for serving 

Rub hen with garlic and rosemary 

and lightly salt. Heat olive oil over 

medium-high heat in a grill pan until 

it shimmers. Add rosemary sprigs. 

Fry hen under press until it is cooked 

through and develops a brown crust, 

5-7 minutes per side. Serve atop 

lettuce leaves with adjika sauce 

spooned generously over hen. 

Adjika sauce 

Ingredients: 

3 tomatoes, blanched and peeled 

1 bell pepper, chopped 

Pinch of fi nely chopped fresh 

horseradish, garlic and chili pepper 

Chop peeled tomatoes and press with 

the back of a spoon, reserving juices. 

Add chopped bell pepper and spices, 

plus salt to taste. Mix well. 

—JAY CHESHES 


Barbarians 

at the Plate 

Moscow’s rebel chef Anatoly Komm defi es the notion 

that Russian food lacks sophistication. BY JAY CHESHES 

MOSCOW CHEF Anatoly Komm is best known for transforming peasant 

fare into avant-garde cuisine that no self-respecting babushka would 

recognize. At his fl agship restaurant, Varvary, he’s served capsules of 

borscht, deconstructed pelmeni and black bread that’s so dehydrated 

it’s got the appearance and texture of dirt. It’s exactly the fare one 

might expect from a former Soviet geophysicist using cosmonaut 

cooking equipment. And the tourists who dine there—90 percent of 

his customers—eat it up. And yet, many of Moscow’s wealthiest local 

diners don’t quite get what he’s doing. “Russians understand what it 

means to have a big boat, jewelry, a good car,” he says. “But to understand 

art, you need more than just money.” 

The 43-year-old enjoys being the bad boy of the Moscow dining scene. 

VARVAY 

OF 

(He’s turned away a cigar-chomping oligarch and his bodyguards for 

being too…oligarchish.) The name of his three-year-old restaurant 

COURTESY 

means “barbarian,” and it’s a cheeky acknowledgement, he says, of the 

way much of the world still views Russian food. To help change those HOM, 

perceptions he’s been hi ing the road, his luggage stuff ed with Russian 

ingredients like black bread, sunfl ower oil, smoked fi sh and pickled her- MELISSA BY 

ring. In the last year he’s been to Cannes for a three-day chef conference 

LEFT: 

and done guest chef stints in Switzerland, Austria and New Zealand. 

Eventually some of the diners he serves 

FROM 

make it to Moscow, where Komm conjures 

KOMM HITHER 

Above, a Varvary take 

his reservation-only all-night “gastronomy on black bread; inset, 

show”—10, 12 or 14 courses of intricately plated Anatoly Komm. 

PHOTOGRAPHS

new Russian cooking. Though 

his techniques were first inspired 

by a visit to El Bulli in Spain— 

birthplace of so-called molecular 

gastronomy—his ingredients dogmatically 

put the motherland first, 

eschewing imported luxuries favored 

by the country’s moneyed class. “I 

know the map of Russian products,” 

he says. He sources the crawfi sh in his 

“Russian carpet” dish from the Don 

River on the outskirts of Moscow. The 

crustaceans are served on a bed of 

smoked salmon and celery gelée with 

lemon foam and bright green and red 

“caviar.” “It’s my gastronomic joke,” he 

says. The bubbles are artifi cially conceived 

by adding droplets of pureed 

herbs and Tabasco to a chemical bath, 

a process known as spherification, 

once used by Soviet food scientists 

to transform liquefi ed fi sh heads into 

fake sturgeon caviar. 

In fact, many of the high-tech 

gizmos now deployed around the 

world in cu ing-edge restaurants had 

industrial uses back in the U.S.S.R. 

Komm’s freeze-drying machine is the 

same sort once used by the cosmonaut 

program to prepare foods for outer 

space. It’s just another quirk of the 

chef whose geophysics career ended 

when he became a Versace importer 

at the suggestion of his girlfriend. The 

career shift opened him to international 

travel. In 1991, on a visit to Hong 

Kong, he decided on a whim to learn 

Chinese cuisine, convincing a cook 

with a stall near the seafood market 

to take him on as an unpaid apprentice. 

That monthlong stint led to others in 

Germany, Spain, the Caribbean, Italy— 

vacations spent slaving in restaurant 

kitchens for fun. 

Eventually a friend convinced him 

to put all that food knowledge to use, 

bankrolling Komm’s first Moscow 

restaurant, the Palazzo di Spaghe i. 

That led to a grill-house called Green, 

which finally gave way to Varvary, 

o en described as the fi rst truly Russian 

haute cuisine restaurant. 

“In Moscow, people are beginning 

to understand the diff erence between 

the good products and the bad,” he 

says. “But it’s changing slowly. And so 

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Its traditional streets combine 

history and modernity 

The heart of Lima beats in time to its people. This city has inherited a 

cultural fusion that impregnates its architecture and gastronomy. 

Cradle of pre-inca civilizations and former capital of the Spanish crown 

in the “new world”, today it is a cosmopolitan capital with great 

personality. 

This city exists. You can see it and feel it. 

Peru. Live the legend 

 

 

 

peru.travel

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL FURMAN 

THE 

BIG 

TEN 

culture 

ARTS MEDIA MARKETPLACE 

ART 

FASHION PLATE 

Ralph Lauren is world renowned for that singular insignia of a 

polo player on horseback, but certain cognoscenti are much more 

impressed by his well-considered collection of cars. This spring and 

summer, the Bronx native is putting a selection of his most prized 

vehicles on display at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Among 

the 17 exquisite rides featured in “The Art of the Automobile: 

Masterpieces from the Ralph Lauren Collection” are a 1962 Ferrari 

250 GTO and a 1938 Bugatti 57 SC Atlantic Coupe, each worth 

between $30 million and $40 million. THROUGH AUGUST 28 


culture || The Big Ten 

2SOU SOUND 

MOUSE MO 

TRACKS TRA RA 

Danger Dan Da Mouse, 

a.k.a. a.k.a producer 

Brian Bria Burton, 

has worked with 

lyricist Cee-Lo 

Green in R&B 

powerhouse 

Gnarls Barkley 

and with The 

Shins’ James 

Mercer in 

the catchily 

downcast indie 

duo Broken Bells. 

But his latest 

is arguably the 

most unexpected 

move yet in a 

notably eclectic 

career. Rome, a 

joint project with 

Italian composer 

Danielle Luppi, is 

inspired by the 

spaghe i western 

soundtracks of 

Ennio Morricone 

and features 

the talents of 

ex–White Stripes 

frontman Jack 

White and singer 

Norah Jones. 

MAY 16 

40 MAY 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 

ARCHITECTURE 

STAR TOWER 

Perhaps only original “starchitect” Frank Gehry would 

have the audacity to redraw the aerial landscape of 

Manhattan and then affi x his name to it. His newest 

building, New York by Gehry, rises from the South 

Street Seaport neighborhood in a nod to the stalks of 

shimmering metal in Midtown. A 76-story, 870-foot 

tower, NYbG is sheathed in a stainless steel curtain that 

ripples up the edifi ce like shiny fabric waving in a breeze. 

It’s a brazen swing at a residential building—the tallest 

in the Western Hemisphere. And with one-bedroom 

rentals starting at $3,300, it’s also relatively modest in 

price (for the neighborhood). NOW OPEN 

4 5 

PRINT 

OH (BIG) 

BROTHER 

Can Google be both the 

best and worst thing to 

happen to the human 

race? Author Eli 

Pariser aims to 

fi nd out in his new 

book, The Filter 

Bubble: What 

the Internet Is 

Hiding From You. 

Pariser, the president 

of political 

group MoveOn.org, 

explores how companies 

like Google 

quietly control how 

we consume and 

share information. 

MAY 12 

VISION 

BRIDEZILLAS 

With the producers of 

Superbad and The 40- 

Year-Old Virgin on board, 

this chick fl ick will be more 

com than rom. Bridesmaids 

draws together an ensemble 

cast of current and past 

Saturday Night Live 

members—Kristen Wiig, 

Maya Rudolph—to tell 

the story of two women 

battling to plan their 

friend’s wedding. MAY 13 

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF FRANK OCKENFELS (ROME), DBOX (GEHRY), CHRIS FARINA/TOP RANK/SHOWTIME 

(MOSLEY), DAN DRY (DERBY), SUZANNE HANOVER (BRIDESMAIDS)

6SPORTS 

RING LEADER 

Last year Manny “Pac-Man” Pacquiao 

sent Antonio Margarito to the hospital 

after their fi ght in Cowboy Stadium. 

Now the 32-year-old “Pound for Pound 

Champ” (who’s also a congressman in the 

Philippines) will take the ring at the MGM 

Grand in Las Vegas to defend his WBO 

welterweight belt against 40-year-old 

“Sugar” Shane Mosley. MAY 7 

HIGH SOCIETY 

ROCKIN’ JOCKEYS 

Mix up a mint julep and don your largest, 

most elaborate hat—it’s Kentucky 

Derby time. The 137th running of the 

greatest two minutes in sports returns to 

Churchill Downs, where odds-on favorite 

Uncle Mo (see “The King of Queens,” 

page 56) may snag the fi rst of this year’s 

Triple Crown titles. MAY 7 

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • M AY 2011 

41

42 

culture || The Big Ten 

9 

SOUND 

BLIND ADULATION 

A running music institution that started 

at an Alabama school for the blind in 1939, 

The Blind Boys of Alabama have done 

pre y much everything a gospel group 

could conceivably do—except make a 

country album. Their new one, Take the 

High Road, draws from the longstanding 

connections between gospel and traditional 

country music and features the talents of 

country giants Hank Williams Jr., Vince 

Gill, Lee Ann Womack, Jamey Johnson and, 

naturally, Willie Nelson, all backed by some 

of Nashville’s best session players. MAY 3 

PRINT 

GREAT ESCAPES 

Join timeless characters like the Cisco Kid, Tarzan, 

the Scarlet Pimpernel, Conan the Barbarian and 

dozens more in The Big Book of Adventure Stories, 

compiled by mystery editor Otto Penzler. This 

weighty omnibus features international works from 

Jack London, O. Henry and Alastair MacLean, 

among others. MAY 31 


10 

VISION 

COMING 

OF AGE 

Terrence Malick (The Thin 

Red Line, Badlands) makes 

his hotly anticipated return 

to the big screen with 

Tree of Life. The fi lm puts 

a spin on the comingof-age 

genre from the 

perspective of an 11-yearold 

Midwestern boy whose 

optimism and dreaminess 

are challenged by troubling 

things happening around 

him, forcing him to wonder 

if the world is really the 

wondrous place he thought 

it was. The fi lm follows him 

into adulthood, where he 

tries to regain the sense 

of hope he once had. Brad 

Pitt, Sean Penn and Jessica 

Chastain lend their talents. 

Is it Oscar time already? 

MAY 18 

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ERIKA GOLDRING (BLIND BOYS)

Ride in the Tour de Cure 

Tour de Cure—Celebrating 20 Years of Inspiration! 

The Tour de Cure is a series of fundraising cycling events held in 43 

states nationwide to benefit the mission of the American Diabetes 

Association. The Tour is a ride, not a race, with routes designed 

for everyone from the occasional rider to the experienced cyclist. 

Whether you ride 10 miles or 100 miles, you will travel a route 

supported from start to finish with rest stops, food to fuel the journey 

and fans to cheer you on! Be a champion in the fight to stop diabetes. 

TAKE THE RIDE OF YOUR LIFE! 

Find your Tour de Cure and register today at www.stopdiabetes.com/flight 

SPECIAL THANKS 

TO OUR NATIONAL 

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Map: XNR Production

MAY 2011 

THE HEMI Q&A 

Bear Grylls 

The daredevil host of Man vs. Wild has run from hungry 

beasts, eaten unspeakable things and diligently courted peril every week 

for the enjoyment of couch-bound TV viewers. Is he nuts? 

BY DAVID CARR 

ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER 

45

46 

BEAR IT Left to right: 

Bear Grylls displays a 

trophy lobster; highfi 

ves Prince Harry; 

and executes his 

duty as Chief Scout 

of the U.K. Scout 

Association in 2010. 


THE HEMI Q&A: Bear Grylls 

EVEN THE MOST SEDENTARY among us have occasionally 

go en into a situation that was a li le over our 

heads: the quiet Sunday sail in the bay overtaken by a 

storm, the li le hike that becomes a lot more complicated 

when darkness falls earlier than anticipated. The 

only thing more memorable than that sudden realization 

that we are in a bind is the feeling of relief once we 

maneuver our way out of it. Bear Grylls lives for that 

sensation. As the host of the demented Man vs. Wild 

on the Discovery Channel, he seeks out preposterously 

dangerous situations and lowers himself right into the 

thick of them. 

Even before the show launched, Grylls was out on 

the edge. He served in the British Special Forces for 

three years. At 23, he became the youngest Briton to 

ever climb Mount Everest. On the way down from the 

fi rst reconnaissance climb, the ice gave way, and he 

survived a fall into a 19,000-foot crevasse. He regained 

consciousness swinging on the end of a rope. Since then, 

Grylls has navigated the Arctic Ocean in an infl atable 

boat, climbed an uncharted peak in Antarctica and 

returned to Everest to fl y a powered paraglider over it. 

He’s wri en 14 books, become Britain’s youngest-ever 

Chief Scout—akin to being the head of the Boy Scouts in 

the U.S.—and is a major fundraiser for the Global Angels 

Foundation, which funds children’s charities. 

In the sixth season of Man vs. Wild, Grylls again eats 

horrible things to survive, faces down ornery beasts and 

is constantly on the cusp of annihilation on some cliff or 

HEMISPHERES: Where is the show 

off to next? 

GRYLLS: New Zealand. We’ve had 

thousands of people on Facebook 

lobbying to get us there, and it’s 

finally going to happen. I’m just 

back this week from Borneo, which 

is one of the toughest jungles I’ve 

ever been in. I got bitten by a big 

snake out there, so I’m looking 

forward to ge ing to the big mountains 

of New Zealand. 

HEMISPHERES: Do you keep track 

of where you’ve been by all your 

wounds and bite marks? 

GRYLLS: I used to. There are too 

many now. My kids still like looking 

at all the scars and bites and 

breaks and bruises. 

HEMISPHERES: How old are your 

boys? 

GRYLLS: They’re 7, 4 and 2. 

HEMISPHERES: So when they’re 

climbing on a big tree and you tell 

them, “Boys, be careful,” do they just 

laugh at you? 

ice fl oe. All of which begs the obvious question: Um, why? CONTINUED ON PAGE 126 

FROM LEFT: PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS, BY 

BEN STANSALL/AFP/GETTY IMAGES, BY FERDAUS SHAMIM/WIREIMAGE

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the goods 

King 

Fin 

Roy Stewart cra s 

a singular sur oard. 


According to sur oard-maker 

Roy Stewart’s website, the 

unusually shaped Chie ain 

represents a triumph of imagination 

over practicality—which 

is pre y much true of surfi ng 

itself. One taste of its smooth, 

zippy ride and you’ll never 

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again. And that’s good, because 

if you bought a Chie ain you 

probably had to sell your house. 

$417,000 / olosurfer.com 


49

50 

culture || Th The 

e Go GGoods ods 

MAY 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM OM 

1 

2 

Mud Club 

Rugged rides 

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1 

When tearing up singletrack, 

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If we’ve learned anything 

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vehicles look be er with the 

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the case of Surly’s Karate 

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monsters are there for a 

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ground approach angle. 

$1,050 / surlybikes.com

50 

culture || Th The 

e Go GGoods ods 

MAY 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM OM 

1 

2 

Mud Club 

Rugged rides 

for trailblazers. 

1 

When tearing up singletrack, 

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If we’ve learned anything 

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52 

culture || The Goods ds 

Hard Time 

These watches get 

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TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer 500M 

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MAY 2011 • HEMISPHE 

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HE H RES RE RES RE RES RE RES RE RES RE RES RE RES ES ESMAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA M AG A AG AZ AZI AZ A AZ AZZ INE.COM 

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In the middle of an 

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2 

Five-hundred-meter watches 

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3 

Sure, the folks at Victorinox 

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56 


the big idea 

The King of Queens 

A er selling vitaminwater for billions, brash New Yorker Mike Repole has set 

his sights on healthy fast food and upscale cheese puff s and horse racing and… 

BY CRISTINA ROUVALIS 

MIKE REPOLE can’t sit still, 

even when he eats. As the 

fast-talking 42-year-old spills 

out his plans to revolutionize 

the fast food industry, his foot 

taps incessantly, and he checks 

texts on three separate cell 

phones. When he comes up for 

air, he does so just long enough 

to devour a 338-calorie turkey 

burger—his company’s answer 

to the Big Mac. Then he bounds 

to the counter and returns 

with a smoothie dubbed “The 

Vaccinator.” 

Most of the thin, stylish 

Manhattanites lunching at 

the no-fry fast food restaurant 

Energy Kitchen would never 

guess the muscular guy with 

the thick Queens accent, Coca- 

Cola T-shirt and faded jeans is 

the staggeringly rich cofounder 

of vitaminwater. Or that he is 

hard at work building not one 

but two new brand empires: 

Energy Kitchen and Pirate’s 

Booty snacks. But he is. 

In 2008, Repole bought a 

majority share in the Energy 

Kitchen chain for more than 

a million dollars. “People 

shouldn’t be eating at McDonald’s, 

Burger King and Wendy’s,” 

he says. “We are going to be the 

future of fast food. I’m not 

afraid of McDonald’s.” 

Sure, go ahead and laugh. At 

$6.99 a pop, low-fat turkey and 

ostrich burgers may not seem 

like a serious threat to the 

mighty Big Mac, but “Mike from 

Queens,” as he still styles 

HAY, THERE Mike 

Repole pauses in 

the stable of his 

Pirate’s Booty– 

eating racehorse, 

Uncle Mo.

KI +1 (415) 332-4111 

1 (800) 401-MATCH (6282) 

Love is in the Air 

A match made in heaven 

KELLEHER INTERNATIONAL 

Awarded “Top Matchmaker in the World 2010” 

Celebrating 

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Amber Kelleher-Andrews 

CEO 

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Mother/Daughter Matchmaking team 

BEVERLY HILLS SAN FRANCISCO NEW YORK CHICAGO WEST PALM BEACH BOSTON LAS VEGAS DALLAS 

HOUSTON LA JOLLA SCOTTSDALE WASHINGTON DC MIAMI DENVER SEATTLE STOCKHOLM LONDON

58 

culture || The Big Idea 

himself (though he’s since moved to 

Long Island) has been defying the odds 

ever since he was a kid with ADHD 

barely making C’s. 

The son of a waiter and a seamstress 

from Italy, Repole grew up in a tightknit 

household with a grandmother 

and aunt who slept on a pullout couch. 

“I wanted bigger and more,” he says. “I 

wanted nice clothes, and we shopped 

at the thri store. I had rubber wheels 

on my skates, and I wanted metal 

wheels. My mom would say, ‘No, you 

can’t have this.’ I’d say, ‘Mom, I am going 

to have it.’” 

By age 12, he was poring over Sports 

Illustrated and Money magazine, charting 

his course to fame and fortune. 

After high school, he studied sports 

management at St. John’s University, 

squeaking by with a 2.2 grade point 

average. A er a stint as a high school 

coach, Repole took a job at Crystal 

Geyser Water Company. He rose fast 

to vice president, but then that foot of 

his started tapping again. 

In 1997, he met Darius Bikoff, 

inventor of the distilled energy drink 

SmartWater. Repole admired Bikoff 

but sensed the idea was 20 years ahead 

of its time. So the two hashed out a 

bridge product: a flavored beverage 

The Weigh-In 

HOW ENERGY KITCHEN FARES 

AGAINST THE BEHEMOTHS OF 

THE BURGER WORLD 

465 

17 

275 Calories 

4g fat 

Energy 

Kitchen 

Ostrich 

burger 

Energy 

Kitchen 

Supreme 

Sirloin 

Burger 

550 

28 

540 

29 

Wendy’s 

¼ pound 

single 

670 

40 

McDonald’s 

Big Mac 


spiked with vitamins. Repole wrote the 

original vitaminwater labels himself, 

penning lines such as “for best results, 

refrigerate” and signed them “Mike 

from Queens.” At first, people called 

the vitaminwater pioneers nuts. Then 

they sold the company to Coca-Cola in 

2007 for $4.1 billion. 

Repole stayed at Coke for a while, 

but he started itching to build a brand 

again. At the time he was an Energy 

Kitchen regular. He loved the no-fry 

menu, but he suspected the masculine, 

orange-and-navy decor repelled every 

potential customer except male gym 

rats. “I used to joke there was a sign 

on the door that said, ‘No women,’” 

he says. So he bought the franchise, 

which at the time consisted of six 

stores around New York City. Thanks 

to a makeover, ordered by Repole, the 

more subtly feminine blue-and-green 

dining rooms now a ract a clientele 

that is 60 percent female. To eliminate 

guesswork for weight-conscious diners, 

including himself, Repole pulled 

all items over 500 calories from the 

menu. “I am not a skinny guy,” he says. 

“If I didn’t eat this way, I would weigh 

400 pounds.” 

Anthony Leone, who founded Energy 

Kitchen in 2004, initially pegged the 

Burger 

King 

Whopper 

700 

43 

770 

48 

Five Guys 

Hamburger 

Hardee’s 

1/ 3 lb 

Original 

Thickburger 

1219 

73 

Ruby 

Tuesday 

Smokehouse 

Burger 

fast-talking Repole as a vitaminwater 

salesman. “He would do his focus group 

of one with me,” Leone says: “‘What’s 

selling? What’s not? Who’s buying?’” 

Leone, another Queens native, sensed 

Repole’s knack for sussing out brand 

weaknesses. “The food was good, but the 

message was incorrect,” Leone says. “We 

had to take four or fi ve steps backward 

and redo everything.” With the aid of a 

full-time director of franchising, Repole 

now has 70 new Energy Kitchens under 

development in Florida, Washington 

D.C., Massachusetts, Connecticut, 

New Jersey and New York. He hopes 

to grow the chain from 10 stores to 

1,000 in 10 years. 

About the same time, he scooped 

up another health-conscious brand, 

Pirate’s Booty. During his tenure at 

vitaminwater, Pirate’s Booty Aged 

White Cheddar Puffs had been his 

favorite snack. He ordered them by the 

case but wondered why they were so 

hard to fi nd. Believing the brand could 

be much bigger, he bought a majority 

share from founder Robert Ehrlich for 

an undisclosed sum in the millions in 

2008. Within two years, Repole had 

doubled sales, to $100 million, expanding 

the company’s offerings into an 

entire line of healthy snack foods. 

And if all that weren’t enough to 

keep him busy, Repole’s also gotten 

into horse racing, a passion since age 12, 

when he used to place $2 bets through 

old gamblers at the track. Unsurprisingly, 

he’s done well in that too. One 

of his horses, Uncle Mo, claimed the 

2010 Champagne Stakes and Breeders’ 

Cup Juvenile and is now a favorite for 

the 2011 Kentucky Derby. What’s the 

secret? “I put Aged White Cheddar in 

my hand and Uncle Mo gobbles it right 

up,” he says. 

People often ask Repole why he’s 

still hustling instead of relaxing in 

the Caribbean, but relaxing’s not in his 

makeup. “People who meet me think 

I’m a li le psychotic,” he says. “My mind 

is always racing. I’ve been anxious my 

whole life—but not afraid.” 

Despite her best efforts to eat vegetables, 

CRISTINA ROUVALIS is a sucker for french 

fries and Twizzlers.

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60 

Dangerous Curves 

A celebration of the humble Wiffl e Ball. BY JOE KEOHANE 

IT WAS A CROWNING achievement 

in a life perhaps not 

altogether rich with athletic 

triumph. I stood on the 

mound—well, the tar spot on 

the parking lot that served as 

our mound—facing down my 

adversary, Flynny. The close 

game had built to this moment, 

the two of us having, for several 

hours, polluted the sultry 

the fan 

neighborhood air with trash 

talk and profanity, and I had 

pulled ahead with a long home 

run in the last inning. This was 

sudden death now. By our rules, 

each ba er got two strikes or six 

balls. Flynny had two outs and 

a strike against him. I reared 

back and submarined a screwball 

that hissed as it skimmed 

a hair’s breadth above the 

asphalt before suddenly cutting 

up and in. Flynny swung 

and missed, which would have 

been enough for me, but the 

evil deuce had a mind of its 

own; it kept cu ing and rising, 

and before Flynny finished 

his swing, it hit him square in 

the face. In my memory the 

resulting smack was so loud it 

fl ushed pigeons from nearby 

MAY 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM ILLUSTRATION BY ALEX NABAUM

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62 

culture || The Fan 

ONE CAN ACCOMPLISH FEATS WITH 

A WELL-SCUFFED WIFFLE BALL 

THAT MAKE CLIFF LEE LOOK LIKE 

HE’S THROWING CANTALOUPES. 

rain gu ers; the part of his face that 

wasn’t glowing red from the pitch was 

darkened with shame. I was 16 and it 

remains the most satisfying thing I’ve 

ever done. 

It’s almost impossible to articulate 

the significance of Wiffle Ball in my 

young life. I’m not alone. Since the 

ball debuted more than 50 years ago, 

its fans have been legion. There are 

leagues around the country, some playing 

in scale replicas of pro fi elds like 

Fenway Park, full of fanatics endlessly 


jawing about the fi ner points of grips, 

arcane rules and pitch placement, 

cha ering against that distinctive hiss 

and snap of plastic ball and bat. The 

game owes its existence to one David 

N. Mullany, a Connecticut businessman 

(and skilled le y curveballer) who 

invented the ball in the ’50s a er his 

children, run off of the local fi elds by 

older kids, started playing in the yard 

with a tennis ball, wreaking havoc on 

the nearby houses. A er unsuccessfully 

trying to get the kids to play with 

ODD BALL The original 

diagram for the Wiffl e Ball 

by inventor David Mullany, 

submitted to the U.S. 

Patent Offi ce in 1954. 

plastic golf balls, Mullany, then out of 

work and struggling fi nancially, called 

a friend who manufactured bo les of 

perfume that were packaged in plastic 

orbs similar to pantyhose eggs. He 

took some of those and cut holes in 

one side so they’d curve. They worked 

well enough that in 1954 he decided to 

patent the design for a plastic ball in 

which several holes are “grouped in 

one portion of the ball surface to cause 

the wind-resisting characteristics of 

the surface of the ball to vary unsymmetrically, 

whereby the ball, when 

spinning in fl ight, will follow a curved 

path,” according to the patent, which 

was granted in 1957. A “curved path” is a 

gross understatement. One can accomplish 

feats with a well-scuff ed ball that 

make Phillies ace Cliff Lee look like he’s 

throwing cantaloupes. 

The opportunity to throw such 

dazzling junk made up much of the 

appeal of the game for us. When I 

was growing up, Wiffl e Ball occupied 

probably two-thirds of my nonschool, 

nonwork waking hours. In the summer, 

we would play from morning to night 

in various parking lots in the Boston 

area using folding chairs and, as we 

got be er, single metal fence posts, for 

strike zones. We seldom kept track of 

innings. We’d just play until it got hard 

to see the ball or our arms were about 

to fall off , then we’d cap it. Those games 

were epic. Laissez-faire open-endedness 

notwithstanding, they got heated. 

Bats were occasionally thrown, names 

called, mounds charged. Our pride 

was all bound up in the game. I have 

a very vivid memory of riding my bike 

to one of our venues with a good friend 

at the time, Robbie. We were about 12. 

I had beaten him badly the day before, 

and as we rode in the cool morning air, 

I reminded him of this fact at great 

length and volume. He listened quietly

for a while, then, as we turned to speed 

down a hill toward the parking lot, he 

jammed his Wiffl e bat into my spokes, 

catapulting me off my bike and very 

nearly into traffic. I can’t remember 

who won that day’s game, though I 

fi gure that means I lost and repressed 

all memory of what was no doubt at 

least 24 subsequent hours of intense 

ragging. Not that that stopped us. A 

couple of years later, the two of us 

nearly missed our Catholic confi rmation 

because of a close game that ran 

long. I remember our being annoyed at 

the senselessness of being compelled 

to end that game in a tie. 

Good as those years were, they were 

not without turmoil. Just when my 

perpetual dominance of the neighborhood 

seemed assured, my brother’s 

friend devised an unhittable pitch 

dubbed simply “the Nasty”—a high, 

fast, hissing, sinking curve that would 

cross the plate a foot over your head 

and still land right in the strike chair, 

or ping off the post. The Nasty seemed 

to bend space and time, and it ushered 

in a sort of Dark Age for all of us: day 

upon day of grueling 0-0 ties; whole 

weeks spent waiting for fat, hanging 

curves that would arrive with the 

MAY CROSSWORD ANSWERS 

The Fan || culture 

frequency of comets. Still, we doggedly 

played on, like those under an 

unending wintertime siege or summer 

drought, faithful that if we just held 

out, this too would pass. 

I don’t get to play more than once 

or twice a year these days, which I 

regret. But I recently dropped by the 

modest headquarters of Wiffle Ball 

Inc. in Shelton, Conn., located on a 

gri y strip of car dealerships and strip 

malls outside of Bridgeport, to chat 

with the inventor’s amiable grandson, 

Dave Mullany. He runs the company 

with his brother, his father and about 

a dozen employees. (The Mullanys all 

have Wiffl e-themed license plates.) He 

gave me a tour of the facility, which 

is really an office space with a few 

desks on one side and a factory fl oor 

with a bunch of boxes and a handful 

of people working machines on the 

other. We talked about his family 

history, tossed a new ball around 

on the factory floor (Dave snaps a 

nice knuckler) and traded tips on 

extracting maximal enjoyment from 

the game, such as never, under any 

circumstances, running bases. 

Standing by the injection molders 

that churn out millions of balls annually, 

with the smell of hot plastic in the 

air, Mullany handed me a fresh one. 

It was warm and a bit so , practically 

glowing white, as if it had been le out 

in the sun on a summer day waiting 

for game time. Holding it, I thought of 

how much we used to get out of these 

things. It made me think about fi nding 

a game. It made me think maybe I 

should call up a certain old friend and 

see if that screwball still works. If he’s 

smart he’ll bring a goalie mask. 

Executive editor JOE KEOHANE hopes his 

dead arm comes back to life in time for the 

annual Fourth of July game. 

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66 

Summer’s almost here, 

and it’s time to up your 

action quotient. From the 

raging rivers of Chile to the 

canyons of Utah, from the 

Great Barrier reef to the 

caves of Mexico, here are 

eight adventurous reasons 

to get out of town. 

72 

Twenty-fi ve-year-old Alex 

Honnold made his name 

climbing some of the most 

fearsome walls and cliff s in 

the world—without ropes. 

We catch up with him as he 

rocks the Greek islands. 


PHOTOGRAPHS BY 

KEITH LADZINSKI 

FEATURES 

ILLUSTRATION BY OLIVER JEFFERS 

78 

Once the power center of the 

world, the Eternal City still 

manages to inspire. Just don’t 

try to see it all at once. 


PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK READ 


65

From Chile 

to Utah and 

Australia to 

the earth’s core 

(or as close 

as you can get), 

here are eight 

adventurous 

reasons to drop 

the remote and 

skip town.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIDGET BESAW/ 

AURORA/GETTY IMAGES (SPREAD), 

COURTESY OF GEOFF MACKLEY 

Pucón, 

Chile 

Trial by Fire 

CLIMB A VOLCANO. 

One of the most traffi cked 

volcanoes in the world is 

so potent that the local 

Mapuche tribe who lived 

there called it Quitralpillán 

Villarrica, or Residence of 

the Ancestors with Fire. 

Regardless, every year more 

than 15,000 travelers scale 

Villarrica, near Pucón. It’s 

home to an open lava pit 

and last erupted in 2009. 

To reach the snow-covered 

pinnacle, you’ll need 

crampons, an ice axe and a 

medium fi tness level, but 

the view of a cauldron of 

bubbling lava beneath is 

easily worth the eff ort. // 

outdoorexperience.org 

GEOFF MACKLEY, 

DISASTER ENTHUSIAST 

AND HOST OF DANGERMAN 

Although 

this videographer,photographer 

and 

TV host 

has experienced 

just about every kind of 

cataclysm, his specialty, volcanology, 

has been immortalized 

in a hit YouTube video he 

fi lmed in which a colleague is 

hanging a third of the way into 

Vanuatu’s 1,650-foot Marum 

Volcano as it erupts. “That 

was the most extreme volcano 

shoot I’ve ever done, but it 

wasn’t terrifying to me,” he 

says. “It was awe-inspiring.” 


68 

Down Under DESCEND INTO 

THE SÓTANO DE LAS GOLONDRINAS. 

Every sunrise, visitors peering down into the Sótano 

de las Golondrinas, or Cave of Swallows, detect 

movement deep in the sinkhole. In the cave 

below are, as you might guess, swallows. 

Over the course of a half hour, the birds 

Aquismón, awaken and rise up through the cave in a 

Mexico great column. In the evening they return, 

align themselves over the opening and 

dive safely below. At more than 1,000 feet 

deep, the cone-shaped cave, located in dense 

forest in the foothills of Mexico’s Sierra Madre 

Mountains, is one of the deepest sinkholes in the world. 

Fortunately for travelers who come here to rappel via rope 

or even parachute down to the mossy fl oor, it’s also easy to 

get to—just a 20-minute walk off of the road. Tours can be 

arranged in town. Not recommended for ornithophobics. 

BILL STONE, WORLD-CLASS 

AMERICAN SPELUNKER 

In February 2012, the Texas-based Stone 

will return to J2, a cave system in the cloud 

forest in Ocotal, Mexico. During his 2009 

expedition, his team descended nearly 

4,000 vertical feet below the surface of the 

earth via rope and dived through underwater 

caves into a cavern considered the 

most remote place on earth (7 miles from the entrance). This 

time, he wants to go another 6.2 miles in and perhaps 6,500 feet 

down, hoping to advance, inch by inch, what mankind knows 

about this dark place in the planet. “It’s like three-dimensional 

chess,” he says, “except that each move takes three years.” 

Rapid City 

PATAGONIA’S 

MOUNTAINS 

ARE RIFE 

WITH GOOD 

RAFTING. 

Patagonia just 

sounds adventurous. 

The name 

conjures images 

of perilous treks 

on narrow trails, 

steep cliff s falling 

off to your 

side. But actually 

one of the best 

adventures you 

can have in the 

region is on the 

water, at the 

confl uence of 

the Rio Azul and 

Futaleufu River. 

There you’ll 

fi nd some of 

the best ra ing 

in the world: 

Turquoise water 


tears between 

snowcapped 

mountains and 

forms frothy 

Class IV and V 

rapids. A local 

outfi er—such 

as Expediciones 

Chile, which 

has trips of 

various lengths 

and for diff erent 

skill levels— 

can equip you 

with horses 

or mountain 

bikes for those 

stretches that 

are too rough 

to ra . Your 

sleeping arrangements, 

luckily, 

are a li le less 

Patagonia, 

Chile 

adventurous at 

Expediciones’ 

Tres Monjas Eco 

Camp, a campground 

with a 

sauna, gourmet 

chef and private 

skinny-dip 

beach. You don’t 

want to tackle 

those Class Vs 

without a good 

night’s sleep. // 

exchile.com 

The coneshaped 

Cave 

of Swallows 

is the site of a 

daily migration 

of thousands 

of birds. 

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF U.S. DEEP CAVING TEAM (STONE), BY ALAMY (RAPIDS), BY DAVID C. 

POOLE/PHOTOLIBRARY (TANZANIA), BY THORNTON COHEN/ALAMY, COURTESY OF DAVID HOUGHTON

Tanzania 

Pedal Power MOUNTAIN 

BIKING TO TANZANIA’S 

NGORONGORO CRATER. 

Starting below the towering peak of 

Mount Kilimanjaro, this moderately 

diffi cult 300-mile route, along cow 

paths and Jeep trails and amid 

elephants, ostriches, lions and other 

African megafauna, leads across 

the baobab tree–studded Masai 

Plains and into the Great Ri Valley, 

past stunning vistas and lakesides 

do ed with fi shing villages. The ride 

concludes at the Ngorongoro Crater, 

a 100-square-mile volcanic caldera 

in the Serengeti formed millions of 

years ago when a volcano erupted and 

Surfi ng 

Safari 

HANG 10 

ON THE OSA 

PENINSULA. 

There are very 

few places that 

intimidate Man 

vs. Wild host 

Bear Grylls 

(see “The Hemi 

Q&A,” page 44). 

But when he 

parachuted into 

the dense jungle 

of Costa Rica’s 

Osa Peninsula, 

he had second 

thoughts. Home 

to jaguars, 

tangles of snakes 

and unspeakable 

insects, the 

wildness is part 

of what makes 

Matopalo, the 

surf break off 

Osa’s beach, so 

collapsed. Today it’s a self-contained 

ecosystem reputed to have the 

world’s densest population of lions, 

along with black rhinos, hippos and 

about 25,000 other species living in 

the grasslands, swamps and forests 

between the crater’s steep, 1,400-foot 

walls. There are a few tour companies 

you can book to lead you along the 

trip, handle camping accommodations 

and, most important, book your 

Ngorongoro safari in advance. Riding 

your bike at a high rate of speed into 

the crater as though it were some 

kind of BMX ramp is not advised. 

Those cheetahs are both nimble and 

hungry. // keadventure.com 

special. The 

rabble stays 

away. Of course, 

you don’t have to 

parachute in, but 

it’s not exactly 

Times Square, 

either. From tiny 

Golfi to, you’ll 

fi nd a handful 

of lodges and a 

variety of worldclass 

waves. // 

pavones.com 

The snowy 

peak of 

Mount Kibo 

looms over 

Kilimanjaro 

National Park 

Osa 

Peninsula, 

Costa 

Rica 

A surfer catches 

air at Matopalo, 

one of two main 

breaks on the Osa. 

DAVID 

HOUGHTON, 

CANADIAN ULTRA- 

CYCLIST AND TOUR 

D’AFRIQUE VETERAN 

For four 

months 

in 2005, 

Houghton 

rode 

almost 

7,500 

miles, from Cairo all the 

way to Cape Town, South 

Africa, in something 

called the Tour d’Afrique, 

gaining membership in the 

“EFI Club” (an acronym 

for an unprintable name 

that includes “every” and 

“inch”). “Whether you get 

sick, or the bike breaks 

down, or you get hit by a 

truck, you go the whole 

distance,” he says of 

the club’s ethos. “You 

never take a day off . That 

maniacal discipline really 

appealed to me.” The trip 

to Cape Town was grueling 

but worth it. “Riding into 

the city and seeing Table 

Mountain, I was crying,” 

he says. “I had never been 

there before, but I felt like I 

was coming home.” 


70 

Drive Like Heck LEARN TO 

SPICE UP A QUIET SUNDAY CRUISE. 

Some people fi nd a quiet drive along a 

tree-lined road on a Sunday relaxing. 

Others prefer to tear 

sideways at full speed 

on a closed course, 

Dalton, 

N.H. 

quarterpanels inches 

from the treeline. At 

Team O’Neil Rally 

School & Car Control 

Center, you learn how 

to do the la er. Using 

dozens of miles of dirt roads, the 

instructors teach the fi ne art of skid 

control, high-speed vehicle dynamics 

and, if you want, the vagaries of off - 

road rally racing. // teamoneil.com 

KEN BLOCK, WORLD RALLY 

CHAMPION DRIVER AND COFOUNDER 

OF DC SHOES 

Few sports require nerves 

as steely and car control as 

precise as rally racing, in 

which drivers steer, skid and 

slide along winding gravel 

roads narrower than alleys. 

Block, who drives a $1 million 

Ford Focus in the World Rally Championship, is 

the top American in this very European sport. 

“I started out at the Team O’Neil school,” he 

says. “That’s where I learned to stay in control 

of the car in very extreme conditions—like a 

WRC race, where I literally have to memorize 

thousands of turns over the course of a week, 

and do them at 100 mph. Sideways. It’s fun.” 


Roping down a 

sandstone face on 

the Morning Glory 

Canyon route. 

In Deep GO FAR BEYOND HIKING IN MOAB. 

Canyoneering is a cross between climbing and hiking, 

yet somehow it transcends both. In part, the appeal 

is in the surreal: rappelling into a Seussical slot of red 

rock or dangling from a cliff while watching sha s 

of light illuminate underground streams. Nowhere 

is the feeling more pleasantly disorienting than in 

Moab’s national parks, where outfi ers like Red River 

Adventures, The World Outdoors and Moab Cliff s 

and Canyons lead intrepid adventurers into striated 

sandstone crevices and past soaring pinnacles. You 

don’t even have to be a dyed-in-the-wool 

explorer to get your fi rst taste: Halfday 

trips into Chamisa Canyon and 

Moab, 

Utah 

Morning Glory can be structured to 

include sub-100-foot rappels, easy 

scrambling and even a swim or two. 

// redriveradventures.com 

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF TEAM O’NEIL (CAR), COURTESY OF 

MONSTER WORLD RALLY TEAM (BLOCK), BY NICOLE MORGENTHAU 

(MOAB), COURTESY OF JIM LEE, COURTESY OF PHILIPPE COUSTEAU

The wreck of 

the SS Yongala 

is popular with 

humans and sea 

creatures. 

Queensland, 

Australia 

Reef Madness 

A DEEP LOOK AT 

AUSTRALIA’S BEST 

WRECK DIVE. 

The Great Barrier Reef off 

of Queensland, Australia, 

a racts more than 1.6 

million tourists a year. 

While most come to 

gawk at the thousands 

of species of aquatic life, 

there’s also some history 

under the sea. The SS 

Yongala was a passenger 

ship that launched in 1903 

and sank in 1911. Its wreck 

was discovered in 1958, 

and divers have reveled 

in exploring it ever since. 

Although the inside of 

the ship is now off limits 

(the air bubbles can erode 

the structure), you can 

see the name still intact 

on the outside, as well as 

a spectacular artifi cial 

reef with bright coral, 

barracuda, sea turtles and, 

from May to September, 

humpback whales. Yongala 

Dive can take you out, 

show you the ship and have 

you back in time for dinner. 

// yongaladive.com.au 

PHILIPPE 

COUSTEAU, UNDERSEA 

EXPLORER AND HOST OF 

OCEAN’S DEADLIEST 

For Cousteau, the grandson of 

Jacques, who revolutionized 

scuba and 

undersea 

exploration, the 

apple doesn’t 

fall far from the 

tree. “I’ve been 

diving in the 

Great Barrier Reef a lot, but 

my most memorable time was 

when we were fi lming Ocean’s 

Deadliest. I was with Steve 

Irwin on what turned out to be 

his last expedition. It reminds 

you how powerful nature is.” 


ALEX HONNOLD HAS MADE HIS NAME 

CLIMBING SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST 

FEARSOME WALLS WITHOUT ROPES. 

AS HE LOOKS TO HIS NEXT BIG 

CLIMB, THE WORLD WONDERS: 

HOW FAR CAN HE PUSH IT?


PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEITH LADZINSKI 


74 

ON THE LITTLE-KNOWN GREEK ISLAND 

of Kalymnos, Alex Honnold, the world’s greatest 

free solo climber, is maneuvering his way 

around massive rock chandeliers hanging from 

a concavity on the side of a mountain overlooking 

the Aegean Sea. The stalactites and tufas 

create an upside-down, three-dimensional 

limestone forest, which can be disorienting and 

take a long time to pick through. It’s relentless, 


physical, big-muscle climbing. And yet Honnold, 

who has been basically hanging upside down 

from his hands and feet for well over half an 

hour, never seems to tire. He moves neither 

quickly nor slowly, but with a calm deliberation. 

Near the top of the wall, the most diffi cult part of 

the route, called the crux, he grunts three times. 

A moment later, with no further fanfare, he clips 

his rope through the chains. The climb is over.

HIGHER POWER Opposite, the 

Greek island of Kalymnos at sunset; 

left, Alex Honnold in repose; below, 

the climber in uniform; on a scooter 

with girlfriend Stacey Pearson; and 

suiting up for a day on the wall. 


76 

“Fun,” Honnold says of a climb that 

many would consider either the thrill of 

a lifetime or a flat-out terrifying ordeal. 

“Pre y mellow.” 

The 25-year-old California native is one 

of the best-known climbers in the world, 

a status he secured by free-soloing—climbing without a rope or any 

protection—routes considered diffi cult even with a full complement 

of safety equipment. In September 2008, he shocked the international 

climbing community by free-soloing the north face of Half Dome in 

Yosemite National Park. It’s considered the most formidable free solo 

ever done, and when it was over, Honnold was hailed as a superhero by 

some and denounced by others as incredibly irresponsible. Critics said 

he was sending the wrong message to impressionable young climbers. 

Nobody who knew anything of rock climbing was lacking for strong 

opinions on the ma er. “He told me he was going to solo Half Dome,” 

Chris Weidner, a good friend of Honnold’s, tells me. “My fi rst reaction was, 

‘Are you kidding me? Don’t do it.’ But he was obviously going to.” It is his 

unwavering confi dence that sets Honnold apart from other climbers, 

says Weidner. “I genuinely believe he leaves the ground thinking there 

is a zero percent chance that he will fall.” 

CONTINUED ON PAGE 128 


HANG TIGHT Honnold, 

Pearson and reporter Alex 

Lowther on a climbing 

“pleasure cruise,” complete 

with safety equipment, 

in Kalymnos.


17 

81 

DAY ONE 

Ge ing lost in 

Trastevere 


THREE PERFECT DAYS 

ROME 

Once the power center of the world, the Eternal City 

shines and inspires anew if you take your time with it. 

(Just don’t order cappuccino a er noon.) 

BY JOE KEOHANE • PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK READ 

82 

DAY TWO 

Meeting Raphael at 

the Pantheon 

84 

DAY THREE 

(Hustling to) the 

Sistine Chapel

ROMAN HOLIDAY Opposite, 

St. Peter’s Basilica from across 

the Tiber River; above, a stretch 

of the posh Via Dei Condotti. 


80 

THREE COINS Left 

to right, the Trevi 

Fountain; Café Babylon 

in Trastevere; an orange 

grove on Aventine Hill. 



ROME 

IT’S THE TREVI FOUNTAIN that does it. You’ll be strolling aimlessly 

around Rome’s alleyways at night, ideally with an almond gelato in hand, 

and all of a sudden, there it is: the Trevi, packed into an undersize square, 

the light off the water fl ickering up against the Baroque masterwork, gazed 

upon by young Roman lovers sharing bench space with tourists. It’s one of 

the city’s—which is to say one of the world’s—leading tourist a ractions, but 

nothing can prepare you for the sensation of just happening upon it. 

Many a Roman holiday has been ruined by outsize ambitions. It’s more 

important to feel it than to see it. In Rome—a single syllable that once encompassed 

the world—stylish businessmen wander down narrow mazelike streets 

originally trod by distant ancestors, and workaday Romans chat idly in the 

shadows of great monuments to lost power and faded glory. Here, the weight 

of history subtly imbues even the most pedestrian routines of city life. Three 

days here is all the evidence you need that though the Eternal City has lost 

its imperial reach, it has lost none of its power.

DAY ONE | You wake up in your room at the Radisson Blu 

in Esquilino, by the Termini train station. Once the sort of 

district associated with, well, proximity to the train station, 

Esquilino now a racts everyone from newly arrived 

Chinese immigrants to young Romans drawn to the bar 

scene atop the wi ily minimalist Blu. You hit a switch by 

your bed and the curtains draw open with a so whir; 

you step off the bed onto a thick shag rug and 

pad across the foam rubber fl oor, past the light 

fi xtures that infl ate when you turn them on, 

preparing for a day spent afoot. 

You take a taxi to Trastevere, one of Rome’s classic 

neighborhoods, located on the other side of the Tiber, and 

step out at Viale di Trastevere. You take a le onto Via di 

Sant’Francesco a Ripa, stop at Babylon Café (1), stake out 

a sidewalk table and relax over a classic Roman breakfast: 

a delicious croissant fi lled with chocolate cream and the 

best, richest cappuccino you’ll have during your time here. 

A erward, you allow yourself to get lost in Trastevere’s 

meandering streets for a couple of hours. 

For lunch, cross one bridge to the small, picturesque 

Tiber Island (2), then another to get to the Ghe o, a bastion 

of classic Roman food. On Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 

you encounter Sora Margherita (3), home of some of the 

best Roman food in the city. Inside the cramped, window- 

less space, the server, mildly annoyed at your 

lack of Italian, jabs her fi nger at the menu and 

walks off , having decided what you’re having. 

Two whole artichokes—one roasted, one fried 

to the consistency of potato chips—a bo le of house red, 

heaping plates of ravioli with sausage and fe uccini with 

rico a and black pepper, a hunk of cheesecake and an 

espresso later, it’s all you can do to toddle back to Tiber 

Island, take a seat on the cobblestone incline at the northern 

edge and watch the river—and a number of fugitive 

soccer balls—dri past. 

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81

Via Aurelia Antica 

Lungotevere del Mellini 

Lungotevere Tor di Nona 

Corso Vittorio Emanuelle 

Lungotevere dei Tebaldi 

82 MAY 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 

7 

6 

Lungotevere della Farnesina 

1 

Viale di Trastevere 


ROME 

4 

3 

2 

8 

Via del Corso 

Via Sistina 

Via del Tritone 

DAY ONE 

(1) Babylon Café Via di San Francesco a Ripa (2) Tiber Island 

(3) Sora Margherita Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30; Tel: 66-874216 

(4) Largo di Torre Argentina Via del Sudario and Via Arenula 

(5) Trevi Fountain Via delle Muratte (6) Campo dei Fiori 

Via del Pellegrino at Via dei Giubbonari (7) Forno Campo dei Fiori 

Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, 22; Tel: 06-6880 6662 

(8) Grand Hotel Plaza Via Del Corso, 126; Tel: 06-67495 

5 

Next, you stroll to the Largo di Torre Argentina (4), 

a ruin that once contained the steps on which Julius 

Caesar was assassinated. Now it’s a cat sanctuary. 

Rome is full of cats, and it’s full of aggressive drivers, 

so the sanctuary was established to give the animals 

a safe place to live. You stroll down a fl ight of stairs, 

past felines napping on the ruins. The volunteers 

introduce you to some of the residents, including a 

li le blind cat named Lucky Luciano, who wanders 

up, a aches himself to your leg and has to be pried off 

by a volunteer. He may as well have a ached himself 

to your wallet. You make a donation on the way out. 

After a couple more hours spent wandering, being 

blindsided by the Trevi Fountain (5) and stopping off for 

a leisurely Campari and soda, you fi nd yourself in Campo 

dei Fiori (6). During the day, this square holds a bustling 

open-air market; in the evenings, it’s a nightlife 

hub. A street performer creates giant bubbles with a 

bucket of soapy water and a length of rope, blowing 

the minds of nearby children. You stop by the busy 

Forno Campo dei Fiori (7) for a slice of pizza bianca with 

salt, pepper, olive oil and rosemary, which is far be er 

than it has any right to be. Then you hail a cab to your 

next hotel, The Grand Hotel Plaza (8), a 19th century 

beauty that has hosted statesmen and a pope. Your 

fl oor has an outdoor terrace lined with benches and 

lemon trees, and you linger out there a while, looking 

out over the nearby Spanish Steps, uncharacteristically 

quiet in the moonlight. 

DAY TWO | Having awakened to the 

sound of bells pealing throughout 

the city, you get dressed and come 

downstairs, past the larger-thanlife 

lion carved into the elegant 

marble balustrade leading to the 

strikingly ornate si ing room of the 

Grand Hotel Plaza. A er a cappuccino 

and chocolate croissant (when 

in Rome…), you head out and walk 

up the posh Via dei Condo i to the 

Spanish Steps (1). Once you hike to 

the top, hop on the subway and take 

it south to Circus Maximus. 

From the subway, you wend your 

leisurely way to Aventine Hill (2), one 

of the seven hills on which Rome was 

founded. A er a 20-minute walk past 

handsome houses, churches and 

schools, you find the gate to Villa 

del Priorato (3), headquarters of the 

Knights of Malta. Peer through the 

keyhole, and you’ll see St. Peter’s 

Basilica perfectly framed at the end 

PHOTOGRAPH OF ARA PACIS BY ACKAB PHOTOGRAPHY

WHEN IN ROME Clockwise from 

opposite page, the Spanish Steps; 

the lobby of the Grand Hotel 

Plaza; lunch at Sora Margerhita; 

cats lounging in the architectural 

ruins at Largo di Torre Argentina 

ROME REBUILT 

Architecturally, Rome is best 

known for works from the 

ancient world (the Colosseum) 

and Renaissance (St. Peter’s 

Basilica), punctuated by 

Baroque masterpieces (Bernini’s 

fountains) and some forbidding 

Modernist blocks (the train 

station). But over the last 

decade the city has brought 

in some leading architects to 

spiff up the place. Renzo Piano 

designed Music Park with a 

large amphitheater and three 

concert halls, which vaguely 

resemble a trio of insects or 

a pod of whales, depending 

on your angle. Zaha Hadid 

contributed her prize-winning 

Centre for Contemporary 

Arts. And American Richard 

Meier designed both the sleek 

travertine and glass structure 

housing the Ara Pacis, a pristine 

1st century altar (below), and 

the striking Jubilee Church, with 

its bright white concrete shells 

and glass. The boom hasn’t been 

without controversy—Meier 

has come in for a drubbing—but 

the Eternal City is nonetheless 

(gradually) embracing some 

new architectural ideas. 


83

84 

Viale Angelico 

Via Aurelia Antica 

Lungotevere de l Mellini 

Lungotevere Tor di Nona 

Corso Vitto rio Emanuelle 

6 


7 


5 

4 

8 

Via del Corso 

3 

1 

Via del Tritone 

Via del Plebiscito 

Via Nazionale 

2 

Via Sistina 

Piazzale Ugo La Malfa 

DAY TWO 

(1) Spanish Steps Piazza di Spagna, 20 (2) Aventine Hill Via di 

Santa Prisca, 11 (3) Villa del Priorato di Malta Via Santa Sabina and 

Via Porta Lavernale, Aventino (4) Ristorante Al Pompiere 38, v. S. 

M. Calderari; Tel: 06-68-683-77 (5) Sant’ Eustachio Il Caff é Piazza 

Sant’Eustachio, 82; Tel: 06-68-802-048 (6) Pantheon Piazza della 

Rotonda, 12 (7) Renato e Luisa Via dei Barbieri, 25; Tel: 06-68- 

69660 (8) Hotel de Russie Via del Babuino 9; Tel: 06-32-88-81 


THE GOOD LIFE A room at the Sofi tel Rome 

Villa Borghese; opposite, baked cannelloni at 

Il Pompiere; pizza at Forno Campo de Fiori. 

of a garden path. It looks like a miniature. 

On the way back, you stop at the piazza 

adjacent to Sant’Alessio all’Aventino church 

for a panorama. 

For lunch, you walk west on Via dei 

Cerchi back to the Ghe o and stop in at 

Al Pompiere (4), marked by the crates of 

fresh artichokes outside. It’s been open 

since 1928, which seems like a considerable 

run until you look to the right of the 

building at the Portico D’O avia, which has 

been standing since 143 B.C. You go for wine, 

artichokes, the house special, baked cannelloni—which 

comes out bubbling—and 

a dish of sliced pineapple. 

Afterward, you walk toward the Pantheon, 

stopping at Sant’Eustachio Il Caff é 

(5) for a fi ne cup of espresso (cappuccino is 

strictly a morning drink) and some people 

watching. It costs a li le more to sit outside, 

which is why most Romans are seen taking their 

espresso standing up at the bar, but it’s worth it. Then 

you walk a few steps to the Pantheon (6). It’s an engineering 

marvel, a perfectly circular concrete dome that 

has lasted nearly 2,000 years. You walk in through the 

portico and fi nd the sarcophagus of the artist Rafael. 

“Here lies Raphael,” reads the Latin inscription, “by 

whom nature feared to be outdone while he lived, and 

when he died, feared that she herself would die.” 

For dinner, head back by the Largo di Torre Argentina 

to the boisterous brick-walled Renato e Luisa (7), 

known for its contemporary riff s on classic Roman 

cuisine. You se le in for a surprising and scrumptious 

appetizer of artichoke mousse with squash and rico a, 

followed by a terrific filet mignon in prune sauce. 

Then you stroll back up one of Rome’s few straight 

boulevards, Via del Corso, toward the palatial, celebrityfavored 

Hotel de Russie (8) to turn in (but not before 

communing with the steam room). 

DAY THREE | You rise early, walk over to the nearby 

Piazza del Popolo and take a seat at Canova (1), 

favored by the late Federico Fellini, the director responsible 

for making Rome cool again in 1960 with La Dolce 

Vita. You order cappuccino and another chocolate 

croissant. It’s becoming a problem, but you’ll need the 

caff eine and carbs for what’s next. 

You wisely arrive at the Vatican Museums (2) via 

taxi at 9 a.m. sharp, and when the doors open, you 

hustle in. This is key. If you hesitate, you’ll be quickly 

swamped by tour groups so dense you won’t be able 

to get past. The big a ractions are at the very end, 

so you practically jog through the exhibits of lesser 

interest and beat the mobs to Rafael’s rooms and the

Gaia Mazzarella 

STUDENT 

“There’s a restaurant in the 

Center of Rome called La Parolaccia, 

where the waiter comes to your table 

and makes a joke of you. You have to 

be prepared because they are mean 

sometimes, but it is very funny.” 


ROME 

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW 

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD 

Salvatore Maraschio 

CONCIERGE AT HOTEL 

DE RUSSIE 

“Browse the Ponte Milvio Antiques 

Market, which takes place along 

the Tiber on the fi rst Sunday of 

every month. Afterward, stop by 

Pompi, just steps away, for the best 

tiramisù of your life. 

Maurizia De Bellis 

PROFESSOR, UNIVERSITY 

OF ROME 

“On Saturday mornings, I go to 

Palazzo Madonna dei Monti, in 

Monti. There are kids playing 

football, dogs running around and 

a lot of people reading the papers 

around the fountain.” 


86 


ARTICHOKE HOLD 

Pliny the Elder may have called them “nature’s 

monstrosities…which even the animals instinctively 

avoid” in A.D. 77 and infamous Baroque painter and 

criminal Caravaggio once got in trouble for hurling 

a plate of them at a waiter in a tavern on the Via 

Maddalena. But despite their unsightly appearance 

and unseemly associations, the artichoke is king in 

Rome, whether prepared Roman-style (pan-fried 

until tender) or Jewish-style (deep-fried twice until 

crispy). The best place to get them is in the Ghetto, 

but they can be found all over the city, particularly 

in spring, when you’ll see wooden crates of them 

stacked up outside restaurants complemented by the 

tantalizing aroma of garlic wafting into the streets.

GILDED AGE Right, the pool at the 

Hotel de Russie; opposite, the 

Galleria delle Carte Geografi che, 

in the Vatican Museums. 

Sistine Chapel. Both of which, 

indeed, are breathtaking, almost 

overwhelming. You take it all in, 

then exit through the endless 

sequence of merchandise stands 

and gi shops. 

The Vatican wore you out, 

so you make your way back to 

Popolo and mount the steps to 

Rome’s central park, Villa Borghese 

(3), which is dotted with 

statuary and high enough above 

the rest of the city that it feels 

like a world apart. You head north 

across the park to the Galleria 

Borghese (4), the former mansion 

of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, 

favorite nephew of Pope Paul V, who used his clout 

to assemble an art collection that rivals that of the 

Vatican in quality, if not quantity. Of special interest 

is Bernini’s sculpture of David, which is all slingshot 

and sinew and frankly makes Michelangelo’s version 

look, well, a li le inert. 

For dinner, you walk to Baby (5), the Michelinstarred 

restaurant helmed by world-renowned chef 

Alfonso Iaccarino, located just north of the park. 

You get a table looking out at the courtyard from 

the stark white dining room and order stir-fried 

spinach with a runny egg and crunchy pork cheek 

and an entrée of veal roll with buff alo mozzarella 

and tomatoes. The food, like the service, is top-notch. 

You have one last stop to make: Monti, for a drink 

and a fi nal stroll. Until fairly recently it was home 

to mostly cra smen; recently it’s been taken over 

by more well-heeled creative types, as evidenced by 

the many new design shops and cafés. You stop at 

the unpretentious Al Vino Al Vino (6) for a nightcap 

and some conversation. It’s late, but just as you’re 

ready to hail a cab back to the hotel, you walk out and 

look le down Via dei Serpenti, and there looms the 

Colosseum (7) in the distance. You walk 10 minutes 

down and take a seat on a wall across the street. 

This is how the Colosseum is meant to be seen: 

half-lit at night, in near-total silence. Like Rome, 

it’s a living monument to both power and its loss, 

and like Rome it makes everything around it seem 

piddling—and yet it somehow does so in a way that 

strikes you as almost impossibly inspiring. 

Executive editor JOE KEOHANE is learning to cope with 

life without Roman breakfasts. 


ROME 

Via della Giuliana 

2 

Viale Giuse ppe Mazzini 

Via Gregorio VII 

Via Cola di Rienzo 

Lungotevere Michaelangelo 

1 

Corso Vittorio Emanuelle 



Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia 

Via del Corso 

3 

5 

Via Sistina 


6 

4 

Corso d’italia 

Via Panisperna 

DAY THREE 

(1) Canova Piazza del Popolo, 16; Tel: 06-361-2231 

(2) Vatican Museums Viale Vaticano; Tel: 06-69-884-676 

(3) Villa Borghese Viale Pietro Canonica 

(4) Galleria Borghese Piazzale del Museo Borghese, 5; 

Tel: 06-413-979 (5) Baby (at Aldrovandi Villa Borghese) 

Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15; Tel: 06-321-6126 

(6) Al Vino Al Vino Via dei Serpenti, 19; Tel: 06-485-803 

(7) Colosseum Piazza del Colosseo 

7

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MAY 2011

FILM & TELEVISION 

FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on fl ights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft fl ights. 

Schedules and selections are subject to change. En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español. 

NORTH 

AMERICA 

HAWAII 

LATIN 

AMERICA & 

CARIBBEAN 

MAY 1-15 

Red [T] 

MAY 16-31 

The Dilemma [T] 

MAY 1-15 


MAY 16-31 

Red [T] 

Both fi lms available on fl ights 

between Denver/Chicago 

and Hawaii 

MAY 1-15 

The Company Men [T] 

MAY 16-31 

Country Strong [T] 

EASTBOUND WESTBOUND 

FILM TELEVISION 

MAY 1-15 

The Big Bang Theory [T] 

The Defenders [T] 

$#*! My Dad Says 

MAY 16-31 

The Simpsons [T] 

The Facebook Obsession [T] 

Better With You 


MAY 1-15 

The Simpsons [T] 

The Facebook Obsession [T] 

Better With You 

MAY 16-31 


The Defenders [T] 

$#*! My Dad Says 

MAY 1-15 

30 Rock [T] 

Psych [T] 

Friends 

MAY 16-31 


House [T] 

Cash Cab 


MAY 1-15 


MAY 16-31 


MAY 1-15 


MAY 16-31 


Both fi lms available on fl ights 

between Denver/Chicago 

and Hawaii 

MAY 1-15 

Red [T] 

MAY 16-31 


MAY 1-15 

The Middle 

Mythbusters 

30 Rock [T] 

MAY 16-31 

The Offi ce [T] 

Hawaii Five-0 [T] 

Cash Cab 


SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND 


MAY 1-15 



Cash Cab 

MAY 16-31 

The Middle 

Mythbusters 

30 Rock [T] 


MAY 1-15 



Frasier 

MAY 16-31 

The Middle 

Brothers and Sisters [T] 

Ultimate Cars 

GET IN TOUCH 

What do you think of our programming? 

We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to 

play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. 

However, customer discretion is still advised. Content 

guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers 

in choosing whether to view a fi lm. 

RED [T] 

“You’re never too old for mayhem.” —Detroit News 

1 hr. 

51 min. 

Frank, Joe, Marvin and Victoria used to be the CIA’s top agents—but the secrets 

they know just made them the agency’s top targets. Framed, they must use all 

of their collective cunning, experience and teamwork to stay one step ahead of 

their deadly pursuers. To stop the operation, the team embarks on an impossible 

mission to break into the top-secret CIA headquarters. 

FEATURING Bruce Willis, Morgan Freeman, Helen Mirren 

DIRECTED BY Robert Schwentke 

COUNTRY STRONG [T] 

1 hr. 

58 min. 

“What saves Country Strong from drowning in its own tears are the leads, all four of 

whom imbue Feste’s script with some genuine humanity.” 

—New York Daily News 

Soon after a rising young singer-songwriter gets involved with a fallen, 

emotionally unstable country star, the pair embarks on a career resurrection tour 

helmed by her husband/manager and featuring a beauty-queen-turned-singer. 

Between concerts, romantic entanglements and old demons threaten to derail 

them all. 

FEATURING Gwyneth Paltrow, Tim McGraw, Leighton Meester 

DIRECTED BY Shana Feste 

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own 

video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as 

they are able to show the programming has an 

MPAA rating of “R” or less. 

THE DILEMMA [T] 


“Let’s have a toast for Vince Vaughn, shall we?”—Detroit News 

[V] Violence 

[S] Sexual Situations 

[T] Adult Themes 

1 hr. 

52 min. 

A man finds out that his best friend and business partner’s wife may be cheating 

on him with another man, plunging him into the moral dilemma of deciding 

whether to tell his friend or not. What ensues is comic mayhem wherein the 

process of uncovering lies only begets more lies. 

FEATURING Vince Vaughn, Kevin James, Winona Ryder 

DIRECTED BY Ron Howard 

THE COMPANY MEN 

“American movies rarely catch the American male so nakedly powerless and 

shattered.”—Hollywood Reporter 

1 hr. 

43 min. 

Bobby Walker is living the American dream: great job, beautiful family, shiny 

Porsche in the garage. When corporate downsizing leaves him and two coworkers 

jobless, the three men are forced to redefine their lives as men, husbands and 

fathers. Bobby soon finds himself enduring enthusiastic life coaching, a job 

building houses for his brother-in-law and perhaps the realization that there is 

more to life than chasing the bigger, better deal. 

FEATURING Ben Affleck, Tommy Lee Jones, Kevin Costner 

DIRECTED BY John Wells


TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS 

THE VIEWS contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United. 

THE OFFICE [T] 

Michael organizes a sting operation to find out the 

secrets of a rival paper company salesman who is 

stealing Dunder Mifflin’s clients. Andy gets Darryl’s 

help to form a band. 

MYTHBUSTERS 

In this extra-special episode, Adam and Jamie tackle 

a request from the highest-ranking viewer of all: the 

president of the United States, Barack Obama. 

$#*! MY DAD SAYS [T] 

Ed tries to quash an article Henry is writing about 

him, while Vince and Bonnie make friends with a 

couple who are prominent in San Diego real estate. 

30 ROCK [T] 

Jack hopes his day of perfect success will allow 

him to help Liz with Carol. Jenna and Kenneth get 

Kelsey Grammer to help them run a con with Carvel’s 

celebrity “Black Card” program. 

THE BIG BANG THEORY [T] 

Sheldon takes on his greatest challenge when he 

attempts to help Penny understand Leonard’s work, 

and Wolowitz becomes jealous when Leonard starts 

hanging out with his new girlfriend. 

THE SIMPSONS [T] 

When Marge discovers she has a knack for carpentry, 

she begins her own handyman service. However, the 

town of Springfield can’t come to grips with the idea 

of a female carpenter and Marge is forced to disguise 

her work by using Homer as a front. 

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES 

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. 

However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause 

electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is fl ying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 

10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff ), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times. 

These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ 

accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players 

These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when 

the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys 

In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling 

headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, fi lm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, 

photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft 

equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to 

the extent specifi cally permitted by United Airlines. UAL Corporation October 2009.


Hilo is beautiful. 

So is our new service. 

Proud to announce new service 

to Hilo, Hawaii-The Big Island, 

beginning June 9. 

 

 

 

 

 

Service starts June 9 from LAX and June 11 from SFO. Subject to change.


B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING 

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf 

Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および3番でお 

聴きいただけます。(一部英語音声のみとなります。) (C) 如果可用,在第2频道和第3频 

道将提供语言录音 (K) 

U.K. 

GERMANY 

AUSTRALIA 

JAPAN & 

SOUTH 

KOREA 

*Japan fl ights only 

CHINA & 

HONG KONG 

THAILAND 

& TAIWAN 

*Thailand fl ights only 

SINGAPORE 

VIETNAM 

FROM U.S. TO U.S. 

The Company Men [T] (G) 1 hr. 43 min. 

Country Strong [T] (G) 1 hr. 58 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (G) 1 hr. 28 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

The Company Men [T] (G) 1 hr. 43 min. 

Country Strong [T] (G) 1 hr. 58 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (G) 1 hr. 28 min. 

The Tourist [T] (G) 1 hr. 42 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Red [T] 1 hr. 51 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

The Dilemma [T] 1 hr. 52 min. 

Tron: Legacy [T] 2 hrs. 

TV 2 hrs. 

How Do You Know [T] 1 hr. 59 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Red [T] (J, K) 1 hr. 51 min. 

The Dilemma [T] (J) 1 hr. 52 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Tron: Legacy [T] (J, K) 2 hrs. 

TV* 2 hrs. 

How Do You Know [T] (J) 1 hr. 59 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Red [T] (C) 1 hr. 51 min. 

The Dilemma [T] (C) 1 hr. 52 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Tron: Legacy [T] (C) 2 hrs. 

How Do You Know [T] (C) 1 hr. 59 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the 

Dawn Treader (J, C) 1 hr. 52 min. 

True Grit* [T] (J, C) 1 hr. 50 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the 

Dawn Treader (C) 1 hr. 52 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th 

and 5th of each month. As a result, please 

understand if your fl ight features a diff erent 

lineup before and after the start of each month. 

Red [T] (G) 1 hr. 51 min. 

The Dilemma [T] (G) 1 hr. 52 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Tron: Legacy [T] (G) 2 hrs. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Red [T] (G) 1 hr. 51 min. 

The Dilemma [T] (G) 1 hr. 52 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Tron: Legacy [T] (G) 2 hrs. 

How Do You Know [T] (G) 1 hr. 59 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

The Company Men [T] 1 hr. 43 min. 

Country Strong [T] 1 hr. 58 min. 

Gulliver’s Travels [T] 1 hr. 28 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

The Tourist [T] 1 hr. 42 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

The Company Men [T] (J, K) 1 hr. 43 min. 

Country Strong [T] (J) 1 hr. 58 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (J) 1 hr. 28 min. 

The Tourist [T] (J) 1 hr. 42 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

TV* 2 hrs. 

The Company Men [T] (C) 1 hr. 43 min. 

Country Strong [T] (C) 1 hr. 58 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (C) 1 hr. 28 min. 

The Tourist [T] (C) 1 hr. 42 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

FROM JAPAN TO JAPAN 

Conviction [T] (J, C) 1 hr. 46 min. 

The King’s Speech* [T] (J, C) 1 hr. 58 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

FROM HONG KONG TO HONG KONG 

Conviction [T] (C) 1 hr. 46 min. 

TV 2 hrs. 

TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs. 

(K) Korean 

(G) German 

(C) Chinese 

(J) Japanese


The destination before 

your destination. 

Buy a Red Carpet Club ® 

one-time pass today.


B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING 

HOW DO YOU KNOW [T] 

1 hr. 

59 min. 

Feeling a bit past her prime, former athlete Lisa 

Jorgenson finds herself in the middle of a love 

triangle, as a corporate guy in crisis competes with 

Lisa’s current baseball-playing beau. 

FEATURING Reese Witherspoon, Owen Wilson, 

Paul Rudd, Jack Nicholson 

DIRECTED BY James L. Brooks 

TRON: LEGACY [T] 

2 hrs. 

Sam, the tech-savvy 27-year-old son of Kevin Flynn, 

looks into his father’s disappearance and finds 

himself pulled into the digital world of Tron, where his 

father has been living for more than 20 years. 

FEATURING Jeff Bridges, Olivia Wilde, 

Garrett Hedlund 

DIRECTED BY Joseph Kosinski 

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOVIES, , TV SHOWS, MUS MUSIC US U IC A AAND 

AND ND P 

P PPREMIUM 

RE REMI MI MIUM U SEAT COMFORT ABOARD UNITED 

The 

Incredibles 

Is it just us, or are 

action heroes looking 

a little...ordinary 

these days? 


Play_0511_p01_Cover.indd 1 01/04/2011 08:41 

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT 

IS EQUIPPED 

with in-seat video, 

refer to the separate 

Play guide located in 

your seat pocket. 

THE TOURIST [T] 

1 hr. 

42 min. 

During an impromptu trip to Europe to mend a 

broken heart, Frank unexpectedly finds himself 

in a flirtatious encounter with Elise. Against the 

breathtaking backdrop of Paris and Venice, they end 

up in a deadly game of cat and mouse. 

FEATURING Angelina Jolie, Johnny Depp, Paul Bettany 

DIRECTED BY Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck 

THE CHRONICLES OF 

NARNIA: THE VOYAGE OF 

THE DAWN TREADER 

1 hr. 

52 min. 

Edmund and Lucy Pevensie, along with their cousin 

Eustace, find themselves swallowed into a painting 

and onto the Dawn Treader. Their mission takes the 

courageous voyagers to mysterious islands and a 

river that turns everything to gold. 

FEATURING Georgie Henley, Skandar Keynes, 

Ben Barnes 

DIRECTED BY Michael Apted 

GULLIVER’S TRAVELS [T] 

1 hr. 

28 min. 

Lemuel Gulliver is a lowly mailroom clerk at a New 

York newspaper. After he bluffs his way into an 

assignment writing about the Bermuda Triangle, he 

goes there only to be transported to an undiscovered 

land where he is, at last, larger than life. 

FEATURING Jack Black, Jason Segel, Emily Blunt 

DIRECTED BY Rob Letterman 

CONVICTION [T] 

[V] Violence 

[S] Sexual Situations 

[T] Adult Themes 

1 hr. 

46 min. 

When Betty Anne Waters’s older brother Kenny is 

arrested for murder and sentenced to life in 1983, 

Betty Anne, a Massachusetts wife and mother of two, 

dedicates her life to overturning the conviction. 

FEATURING Hilary Swank, Sam Rockwell, 

Thomas D. Mahard 

DIRECTED BY Tony Goldwyn


What we all want… 

a little more space. 

Enjoy more personal space 

in Economy Plus ®.

AUDIO 

PROGRAMMING 

The latest top selling 

songs from Zune. 

The latest in Indie 

and Modern Rock. 

The best from the world 

of chamber music. 

The latest and greatest 

in world music. 

The best of current 

adult pop. 

The best of pop music 

from around the world. 

The best in music 

performed on the 

piano. 


in R&B and soul. 

The greatest classic 

rock hits. 

Mumford and Sons 

They’ve topped the charts 

and garnered a Grammy 

nomination for their album 

Sigh No More. Listen to the hit 

song ‘Little Lion Man’ on the 

Contemporary Pop Channel. 

The best of 

contemporary jazz. 

The best from the 

world of opera. 


alternative hits. 

The best from the world 

of classical music. 

The best of atmospheric 

and new age music. 

The latest and 

classics from moviez 

soundtracks. 

The best of current 

and classic country. 

The latest and top 

selling music for kids. 

The latest in electronic 

and dance music. 

The best in comedy. 

R.E.M. 

Their new album Collapse Into 

Now is quintessentially R.E.M. 

Listen to ‘Mine Smell Like 

Honey’ on the Indie/Modern 

Rock channel.

CHANNEL 777 (2-CABIN) SELECT A320 A319 & A320 747 757/767 (2-CABIN) 

1 movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) 

2 top songs in zune top songs in zune top songs in zune movie (dubbed) top songs in zune 

3 contemporary pop contemporary pop contemporary pop movie (dubbed) contemporary pop 

4 classical classical classical classical classical 

5 new wave new wave new wave new wave new wave 

6 country country unavailable country country 

7 classic rock classic rock unavailable classic rock classic rock 

8 kids electronic/dance unavailable contemporary pop kids 

9 fl ight deck fl ight deck fl ight deck contemporary 

jazz/fl ight deck 

contemporary 

jazz/fl ight deck 

10 indie/modern rock movie (dubbed) movie (dubbed) top songs in zune movie (dubbed) 

11 world pop kids indie/modern rock kids 

12 new age new age new age new age 

13 r&b/soul contemporary jazz country chamber music 

14 electronic/dance indie/modern rock classic rock world music 

15 chamber music chamber music kids 

16 piano jazz 

17 opera 

18 soundtracks 

19 comedy 

Zune and United bring you a sample of the 

music available to Zune users —on their PC, 

Xbox 360, Windows Phone 7 and Zune media 

players. Learn more about Zune music and 

video entertainment at www.zune.net/united. 

Find your aircraft model on the grid below to fi nd the Zune channel that’s right for you. 

flight deck 

Listen for your fl ight number to hear live communication 

between the fl ight deck and FAA air traffi c control. This 

feature, unique to United, may not be available on all 

fl ights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio 

communication. Available at your captain’s discretion. 

zune pass 

Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today 

plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a 

Zune ® Pass music subscription.* 

Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14-days. 

*Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States, UK, France, Italy and Spain. 

Available content may vary over time.


You’re going to like 

where we land.

Available at Macy’s and macys.com 

light meets might.

Alta 

Tromso 

United/Continental Seasonal Service 

ROUTE MAPS 

United/Continental Future Service 

 

INTERNATIONAL CITIES 

CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) 

 

Route lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path 

 

Lulea 

CITY 

Continental Hub (Blue All Caps) 

Oulu 

 

Umea 

Reykjavik 

 

United/United Express/ 

Cities served 

Trondheim 

Ostersund 

Kristiansund 

 

Continental/Continental Express/ 

Cities served by select airline partners 

Molde 

Vaasa 

Anchorage 

 

Continental Connection Route 

Time zone boundary 

Turku Helsinki 

 

Oslo 

 

St. Petersburg 

 

 

Tallinn 

Stockholm 

 

Edinburgh 

 

 

 

 

Glasgow 

Riga 

Manchester Copenhagen 

 

Malmo 

Moscow 

Belfast 

Vilnius 

Ekaterinburg 

 

Dublin 

Hamburg Gdansk Minsk 

Amsterdam 

 

 

 

Shannon 

Berlin Warsaw 

 

Birmingham 

Brussels 

 

London 

Kiev 

Krakow 

Frankfurt 

 

Munich 

Kosice 

Paris 

 

Khabarovsk 

Donetzk 

 

Ulaanbataar 

 

Chisinau 

Seattle 

 

 

 

Harbin 

Odessa 

Geneva Milan Belgrade 

 

Bucharest 

Krasnodar 

 

Changchun 

 

Sapporo 

 

Alma-Ata 

Rome 

 

 

Sofia 

Shenyang 

 

 

 

Bishkek 

CHICAGO 

Tbilisi 

 

New York (La Guardia) 

Skopje 

Istanbul 

Baku 

Tashkent 

Baotou 

 

 

(O’HARE) 

Barcelona 

Batumi 

CLEVELAND 

 

Tirana 

 

Beijing 

Madrid 

Ankara 

 

Pyongyang 

 

Yerevan 

Tianjin Dalian 

Sendai 

NEW YORK (NEWARK) 

Lisbon 

Niigata 

Horta 

Izmir 

SAN FRANCISCO 

Dushanbe 

Komatsu 

DENVER 

WASHINGTON, DC 

Athens 

Antalya 

Seoul 

(DULLES) 

Ashgabat 

Zhengzhou 

Algiers 

Larnaca 

Erbil 

Qingdao 

TOKYO 

 

Tunis Malta 

Pusan 

Rhodes Ercan 

LOS ANGELES 

Raleigh/Durham 

Oran 

 

Islamabad 

 

Beirut 

 

Tehran Mashad 

Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya 

Nador 

Casablanca 

Peshawar Jammu 

Nanjing 

Hefei 

Cheju 

Okayama 

Orange County 

 

Tripoli 

Tel Aviv Damascus Baghdad 

Nagasaki 

 

 

Amritsar 

Chengdu Shanghai Shanghai 

Hiroshima 

HOUSTON 

Lahore 

Wuhan 

Amman 

Guwahati 

Kumamoto 

Funchal 

Benghazi 

Chandigarh 

 

 

Chongqing 

Hangzhou 

Kagoshima Oita Kochi 

Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL) 

Bermuda 

Alexandria 

Ningbo 

 

 

Matsuyama 

San Antonio 

 

Kathmandu 

Changsha 

Chihuahua 

Cairo 

Kuwait 

Wenzhou 

Delhi 

Miyazaki 

 

 

 

Guiyang 

Saltillo Tenerife 

Fuzhou 

Monterrey 

Las Palmas 

Dammam 

 

 

 

 

 

Guangzhou 

Okinawa 

Torreon 

Jaipur 

Kunming 

Xiamen Taipei 

Luxor 

Lucknow 

 

Guilin 

Nassau 

Bahrain 

 

Santo Domingo 

Dubai 

Durango 

Tampico 

Karachi 

 

 

Riyadh Doha Abu Dhabi 

Indore Patna 

Nanning 

 

 

 

Dhaka 

Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki 

Los Cabos 

Aguascalientes 

Aguadilla 

Providenciales 

Muscat 

Ahmedabad 

Raipur 

Hanoi 

 

Queretaro 

San Juan 

Jeddah 

Hong Kong 

Honolulu 

Cozumel 

Nagpur 

Kolkata 

Chiang Rai 

Mexico City 

Puerto 

Chiang Mai 

Haikou 

Veracruz 

Grand Cayman 

St. Thomas 

Puerto Vallarta 

Plata 

 

 

 

Pune 

Vientiane 

Ciudad del 

Agartala 

 

Manzanillo 

Puebla Carmen 

St. Maarten 

Mumbai 

 

 

Yangon 

 

Belize Montego 

Sal 

 

 

Khon Kaen 

Guadalajara 

Bay 

Port-au- 

Punta Ponce Antigua 

 

 

 

 

Saipan 

Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan 

Prince 

Morelia 

 

 

Luzon Island 

Toluca 

Dakar 

 

Goa 

HuatulcoGutiérrez 

Cana 

Bangkok 

Manila 

San Pedro Sula 

 

Khartoum 

Sanaa 

Bangalore 

 

 

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Villahermosa Tegucigalpa 

Asmara 

Aruba 

Banjul 

Chennai 

 

 

Ouagadougou 

 

Mangalore 

Phnom Penh 

GUAM 

Acapulco Guatemala City 

Bonaire 

 

 

(Madras) 

 

Bissau 

Kano 

 

Kozhikode 

Cebu 

San Salvador Panama 

Port-of-Spain 

 

 

Coimbatore 

Krabi 

Ho Chi Minh City 

City 

Conakry 

 

Managua 

Caracas 

(Saigon) 

 

Maracaibo 

Cochin 

Yap 

Kwajalein 

Phuket 

Valencia 

 

Freetown 

Cotonou 

Abuja 

Hat Yai 

Liberia 

Cartagena 

Addis Ababa 

 

Trivandrum 

Pohnpei 

 

 

 

Port Harcourt 

Kota Kinabalu 

 

 

 

 

Medellin 

Bucaramanga 

Lagos 

Penang 

Chuuk (Truk) 

Palau 

Majuro 

 

Monrovia 

Lome 

Douala 

Juba 

Bandar Seri Begawan 

Accra 

Colombo 

Kosrae 

Cali 

 

Abidjan Malabo Yaounde 

 

 

Kuala Lumpur 

 

 

 

 

 

Singapore 

Quito 

 

Libreville 

Sao Tome 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kigali 

Nairobi 

Guayaquil 

Manaus 

 

Fortaleza 

 

 

Mahé 

Pointe Noire 

Bujumbura 

 

 

Kinshasa 

 

 

Dar Es Salaam 

Jakarta 

 

Recife 

 

Luanda 

Denpasar Bali 

Lubumbashi 

 

Salvador 

 

 

 

Darwin 

 

Apia 

Lima 

Pago Pago 

Cuzco 

 

Bergen 

Oslo 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lusaka Lilongwe 

Helsinki 

Brasilia 

Port Vila 

 

Stockholm 

Harare 

Cairns 

 

Santa Cruz 

Goiania 

 

Nadi 

 

Papeete 

Niue 

 

 

Campo Belo Horizonte 

Stavanger 

 

Rarotonga 

Grande 

 

Nuku’ Alofa 

 

 

Noumea 

 

Rio de Janeiro 

Windhoek 

Manzini 

 

 

Aberdeen Aalborg 

 

to 

to 

to to 

to to 

 

 

Riga 

San Francisco Denver 

Iguassu Falls 

Gaborone 

Maputo 

Cleveland New York New York New York 

Aarhus 

 

to 

(Newark) (La Guardia) (Newark) 

Glasgow Edinburgh 

Billund Copenhagen Palanga 

Brisbane 

Los Angeles 

Curitiba 

Johannesburg 

Malmo 

 

Norfolk Island 

Gold Coast 

 

Florianopolis 

Newcastle Esbjerg 

HOUSTON 


to 

Bloemfontein 

 

 

 

Washington 

Porto Alegre 

Belfast 

Maseru 

Durban 

Groningen 

Gdansk Kaliningrad 

Vilnius 

Hermosillo 

Austin 

(INTERCONTINENTAL) 

(Dulles) 

Bermuda 

Cordoba 

 

Leeds 

Bremen Hamburg 

Chihuahua 

 

Perth 

 

 

 

East London Dublin Manchester 

San Antonio 

 

Berlin 

 

 

Guaymas 

Sydney 

Saltillo 

Santiago 

Cape Town 

Hannover 

 

Montevideo 

Shannon 

Amsterdam 

Adelaide 

Monterrey 

Port 

Birmingham 

Muenster 

Warsaw 

Elizabeth 

 

Auckland 

Torreon 

Santiago 

Buenos Aires 

Cork 

Leipzig 

Nassau 

London 

Bristol 

Dresden 

London Brussels 

Melbourne 

Hamilton Rotorua 

 

Samana 

Durango 

Tampico 

Napier-Hastings 

(Gatwick) Cologne 

Prague 

Havana 

Santo Domingo 

Frankfurt 

Katowice 

 

 

Los Cabos 

Aguascalientes 

Luxembourg 

Palmerstown North 

Providenciales 

Aguadilla 

Nuremberg 

 

Nelson 

Wellington 

Queretaro 

San Juan 

Paris Stuttgart Munich 

Cozumel 

Blenheim 

Basel Salzburg Linz Vienna 

Mexico City 

Puerto 

St. Thomas 

 

 

Budapest 

Christchurch 

Grand Cayman Plata 

Puerto Vallarta 

Veracruz Ciudad del 

Friedrichshafen 

 

Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca 

Queenstown Dunedin 

Manzanillo 

Ljubljana 

Puebla Carmen Montego 

St. Maarten 

Lyon 

Verona 

Belize Bay 

Port-au- 

Venice Zagreb 

Guadalajara 

Belize Bay 

Bucharest 

Kingston 

Prince Punta Cana Antigua 

Turin 

Milan Trieste 

St. Kitts 

 

 

Oaxaca 

Roatan 

Pointe a Pitre 

Bologna 

Morelia 

 

Toulouse 

Genoa 

Belgrade 

Toluca Huatulco 

San Pedro Sula 

Martinique 

Florence 

 

La Coruna 

Nice 

Sarajevo 

St. Lucia 

Marseille Pisa 

 

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo 

Tegucigalpa 

St. Lucia 

Bilbao 

Ancona 

Villahermosa 

 

San Andres Aruba 

Barbados 

Sofia 

Acapulco 

Island 

Guatemala City 

Bonaire 

Rome 

 

Skopje 

 

Grenada 

Porto 

Istanbul 

Tobago 

Madrid 

Naples 

San Salvador 

Thessaloniki 

 

 

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental 

Caracas 

Valencia 

Alexandroupolis 

 

Palma 

 

Managua 

Port-of-Spain 

 

Managua 

Port-of-Spain 

Panama City 

 

Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight 

La Romana Ibiza 

Palermo 

schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. 

 

Liberia 

Lisbon 

Alicante 

Sevilla 

 

 

 

 

 

Izmir 

© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 

Mikonos 

 

Faro Granada 

Rhodes 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luga Heraklion

Prince Rupert Smithers 

Terrace 

Sand Spit 

Prince George 

Fort St. John 

Grande Prairie 

Fort McMurray 

 

Cullaton Lake 

Ennadai Lake 

ROUTE MAPS 

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES 

Route lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path 

United/United Express/ 

Continental/Continental Express/ 

Continental Connection Route 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

to Anchorage 

Goose Bay 

Nanaimo 

Kamloops 

Vancouver 

Edmonton 

Wabush 

 

 

Deer Lake 

Gander 

Victoria 

Kelowna 

Penticton 

Calgary 

Saskatoon 

 

 

Seattle 

Castlegar 

CranbrookLethbridge 

Gaspe 

Baie-Comeau 

Medicine Hat 

Spokane 

Regina 

Mont-Joli 

Kalispell 

ºles de la Madeliene 

Bathurst 

Winnipeg 

 

Portland 

Sydney 

Pasco 

Saguenay 

 

Missoula 

Glasgow 

Eugene 

Charlottetown 

Great Falls 

Williston 

Presque Isle Moncton 

Helena 

Sidney 

Minot 

Timmins 

Thunder Bay 

North Bend 

Lewistown 

Rouyn-Noranda 

City 

Fredericton 

Redmond 

Glendive 

Saint John 

Mont Tremblant 

Halifax 

Medford 

Bozeman 

Miles City 

Bismarck 

Sudbury 

Billings Dickinson 

Houghton 

Fargo 

Duluth 

North Bay 

Bangor 

Crescent City Klamath 

Boise Cody/ 

Sault Ste. 

Marie 

Bar Harbor 

Falls 

Yellowstone 

Sheridan 

Ottawa 

Eureka 

Idaho Falls 

Redding 

Worland Gillette 

Plattsburgh 

Portland 

Jackson Hole 

Rapid City 

Minneapolis Wausau 

Kingston Burlington 

Chico 

Eau Claire Green Bay Traverse City 

Pierre 

Toronto 

Manchester 

Huron 

Toronto Syracuse 

Riverton 

Appleton/ 

Midland/ 

Albany Boston 

Casper 

Sioux 

Fox Cities 

Sarnia 

Rochester 

Sacramento 

Chadron 

Grand 

Saginaw 

Buffalo/ 

Hartford/ 

Reno/Tahoe 

Rock Springs 

Falls 

Muskegon 

Ithaca 

Hyannis 

Milwaukee Rapids Flint Niagara Falls Binghamton Springfield Nantucket 

SAN FRANCISCO Oakland 

London 

Elmira Newburgh 

SAN FRANCISCO 

Scottsbluff 

Salt Lake City 

Madison 

Lansing 

Jamestown 

Providence 

Modesto 

Alliance 

Wilkes Barre/ 

Detroit 

San Jose 

Laramie 

Windsor 

White New Haven 

South 

Scranton 

Mammoth Lakes 

Vernal 

Cedar 

Erie 

Hayden/ 

Cheyenne 

Bend/Elkhart/ 

Bradford 

Plains Long Island/Islip 

CLEVELAND 

Omaha 

New York (La Guardia) 

Fresno 

Steamboat 

Grand 

Rapids/ 

Mishawaka 

Franklin Williamsport 

North Platte 

Clearfield 

(J.F. Kennedy) 

Monterey 

 

Des 

Grand Springs 

Island 

Iowa City 

Akron/Canton State Allentown 

Visalia 

Moines 

Dubois College 

NEW YORK (NEWARK) 

Junction Vail/Eagle 

Peoria 

DENVER 

Kearney 

Ft. 

Pittsburgh 

Moab 

DENVER 

Aspen 

Moline 

McCook 

Lincoln 

Wayne 

Philadelphia 

Columbus 

Harrisburg 

Johnstown 

Inyokern 

Altoona Baltimore 

San Luis Obispo 

St. George Montrose 

Colorado Springs 

Dayton 

Morgantown 

 

Bakersfield 

Gunnison/ 

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) 

Las Vegas 

Crested 

Springfield Indianapolis 

Clarksburg 

Telluride 

Hays 

Butte 

Parkersburg 

Santa Maria 

Shenandoah 

Salisbury 

Page/ 

Cortez 

Kansas City 

Cincinnati 

(Reagan National) 

Santa Barbara Burbank 

Lake Powell 

Durango Pueblo 

St. Louis 

Valley 

Huntington Charleston Charlottesville 

Louisville 

LOS ANGELES 

Farmington Alamosa 

Garden City Great Bend 

Lewisburg Richmond 

Long Beach Ontario 

Lexington Beckley 

Norfolk/Virginia Beach 

Orange County 

Flagstaff 

Dodge City 

Lynchburg 

Wichita 

Liberal 

Roanoke 

Newport News/Williamsburg 

Carlsbad 

Springfield 

Tri-Cities Regional 

Palm Springs 

Prescott 

Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem 

Paducah 


San Diego 

Show Low 

Amarillo 

Albuquerque 

Tulsa 

Imperial 

Nashville Knoxville 

New Bern 

Phoenix/Scottsdale 

Northwest 

Oklahoma City 

Charlotte Greenville 

Arkansas 

Yuma 

Asheville 

Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg 

Greenville/ 

Jacksonville 

 

Lubbock 

Memphis 

Spartanburg 

Tucson 

Little 

Chattanooga 

Wilmington 

Rock 

Huntsville/ 

Columbia Florence 

Decatur 

Myrtle Beach 

Atlanta 

Hobbs 

El Paso 

Dallas/ 

Birmingham Augusta 

Charleston 

Fort Worth 

Dallas (Love) 

Hilton Head Island 

Midland/ 

Monroe 

Odessa 

Jackson 

Montgomery 

Shreveport Jackson 

Waco Tyler 

Savannah 

Train Routes 

Killeen 

College Station 

Codeshare / OnePass Service 

Alexandria 

Mobile 

Baton 

Pensacola Tallahassee 

Austin 

Jacksonville 

OnePass Eligible Service 

Honolulu 

Lake 

Rouge 

Kapalua Kahului 

Del Rio 

Charles 

Ft. Walton 

Gainesville 

 

HOUSTON 

Lafayette Gulfport/ Beach 

Boston 

San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) 

New Biloxi 

Daytona 

Beaumont/ Orleans 

Pt. Arthur 

Orlando 

Victoria 

Laredo 

Tampa/St. Petersburg 

Melbourne 

Laredo 

New Haven 

Hilo 

Newark Stamford 

Kona 

 

West Palm Beach 

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental 

Corpus Christi 

Sarasota/Bradenton 

Treasure Cay 

(Liberty) New York (Penn Station) 

Freeport 

Marsh Harbour 

Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight 

McAllen 

Ft. Myers 

schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. 

Harlingen 

Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood 

Philadelphia 

' 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 

Brownsville 

North Eleuthera 

Wilmington 

Miami Bimini 

Governors Harbour 

0 50 100 150 Miles 

Nassau 

 

0 50 100 150 200 Kilometers 

0 100 200 300 400 Miles 

Andros Town Cat Island 

Washington, DC 

 

Key West 

0 100 200 300 400 500 600 Kilometers 

George Town 

 

CITY 

CITY 

United/Continental Seasonal Service 

United/Continental Future Service 

United Hub (Red All Caps) 

Continental Hub (Blue All Caps) 

Cities served 

Cities served by select airline partners 

Time zone boundary 

 

 

 

CUSTOMS 

& IMMIGRATION 

U.S. I-94 Arrival/ Departure record 

All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94 

Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants). 

Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street 

name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you 

are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your 

fi nal destination country. The Customs and Border Protection 

offi cer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after 

inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the 

airline representative before boarding your return fl ight. 

U.S. Customs Declaration 

All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete a 

Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in 

capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city 

and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through 

the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your fi nal destination 

country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your 

signature at the bottom of the form. 

Expedited Passport Control and Customs 

Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry 

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) off ers the Global Entry 

program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, 

low-risk international travelers entering the United States. 

Upon returning from international travel, Global Entry-enrolled 

travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and 

proceed to the Global Entry kiosk. Global Entry program participants 

scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent 

resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fi ngertips on the 

scanner for fi ngerprint verifi cation and make a customs declaration. 

The kiosk issues the traveler a transaction receipt and directs 

the traveler to baggage claim and exit. 

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in 

Global Entry: 

• Citizens and Residents of the U.S. 

• Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa 

• Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled 

in Privium 

• NEXUS members 

• SENTRI members 

Application for enrollment in the Global Entry program is 

available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): 

https://goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov/. It costs only US$100 which covers 

enrollment in the program for a fi ve year period. The government 

will review the applicant’s information while a background 

investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview 

with CBP offi cers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before fi nal 

approval is granted. 

Global Entry is available in the following cities: Atlanta 

(ATL), Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD-O’Hare), Dallas (DFW), 

Detroit (DTW), Ft. Lauderdale (FLL), Honolulu (HNL), Houston 

(IAH-Intercontinental), Las Vegas (LAS), Los Angeles (LAX), 

Miami (MIA), New York (JFK), Newark (EWR-Liberty), Orlando 

(MCO-International and SFB-Sanford), Philadelphia (PHL), Seattle 

(SEA), San Francisco (SFO), San Juan (SJU), and Washington, DC 

(IAD-Dulles). 

For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border 

Protection site, globalentry.gov 

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY OMB No. 1651-0111 

U.S. Customs and Border Protection 

Welcome to the United States 

I-94 Arrival/Departure Record 

Instructions 

This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, 

aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. 

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the 

back of this form. 

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and 

the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). 

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. 

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are 

entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, 

including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to 

give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The 

information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes 

or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless 

otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the 

United States and result in your removal. 

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) 

OMB No. 1651-0111 

Arrival Record 

Admission Number 

000000000 00 

1. Family Name 

2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 

4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) 

8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 

10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 

12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 

15. City and State 

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 

17. Email Address 

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY 

U.S. Customs and Border Protection 

Departure Record 

Admission Number 

000000000 00 

18. Family Name 

See Other Side 

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) 

OMB No. 1651-0111 

19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 

21. Country of Citizenship 

Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 form, which all U.S. visa 

holders must complete. 

Andorra 

Australia 

Austria 

Belgium 

Brunei 

Czech Republic 

Denmark 

Estonia 

Finland 

France 

Germany 

Greece 

Hungary 

COUNTRIES PARTICIPATING IN THE U.S. 

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM (VWP): 

COUNTRIES PARTICIPATING IN THE GUAM-CNMI 

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM (VWP): 

Australia 

Brunei 

Hong Kong (SAR) 

Japan 

Malaysia 


Iceland 

Ireland 

Italy 

Japan 

Latvia 

Liechtenstein 

Lithuania 

Luxembourg 

Malta 

Monaco 

Netherlands 

New Zealand 

Norway 

Nauru 

New Zealand 

Papua New Guinea 

SIngapore 

South Korea 

Portugal 

San Marino 

Singapore 

Slovakia 

Slovenia 

South Korea 

Spain 

Sweden 

Switzerland 

United Kingdom 

(British citizen or with 

unrestricted right of abode) 

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) 

STAPLE HERE 

Taiwan 

(direct fl ight to Guam with 

passport and national ID card) 

United Kingdom 

(including BNO)

INFORMATION & 

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS 

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next fl ight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal 

diagrams on pages 122-124 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation. 

CONTACT INFORMATION 

Reservations 

united.com 

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) 

Automated Flight 

Information 

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) 

Mileage Plus 

24-Hour Account 

Information 

& Award Travel 

united.com/mileageplus 

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) 

Mileage Plus Visa 

Customer Service 

united.com/chase 

800-537-7783 

Baggage Services 

united.com/baggage 

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) 

Refunds 

united.com/refunds 

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) 

Customer Relations 

united.com/customerrelations 

Email: customerrelations@united.com 

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) 

Red Carpet Club 

united.com/redcarpetclub 

866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free) 

520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.) 

Hearing Impaired (TDD) 

800-323-0170 

Reservaciones en Español 

800-426-5561 

United Cargo 

unitedcargo.com 

800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746) 

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS 

At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. 

On occasion, canceling or delaying a fl ight is the only option to assure we 

maintain the highest safety standards. 

Flight canceled? We automatically confi rm you on the next United fl ight 

with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will 

assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you 

standby for an earlier United fl ight if one is scheduled. If you want to 

travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next 

United fl ight to your destination until you are onboard. 

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next fl ight if space is 

available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure 

the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. 

What if I have to stay overnight? If a fl ight is canceled to address a 

mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we will 

STAYING FIT: 

INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY 

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward 

chest, decreasing the amount of 

joint space at back of the knee. 

Repeat with other leg. 

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, 

increasing the amount of joint 

space at the back of the knee 

to its full range. Repeat with 

other leg. 

United Services 

unitedsvcs.com 

Meetings Plus 

800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) 

Duty Free World 

6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 

Miami, FL 33015 USA 

800-668-6182 

United Vacations 

unitedvacations.com 

800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877) 

Charter an Airplane 

united.com/charter 

Small Package Same 

Day Shipping 

Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— 

Airport-to-airport service: 

800-722-5243 

Dorsifl exion: With heel on fl oor, point 

toes upward, decreasing the angle 

between the foot and front of the leg. 

Repeat with other foot. 

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and 

keep toes pointed toward the fl oor, 

increasing the angle between the top 

of the foot and front of the leg. 

Repeat with other foot. 


Employment Opportunities 

united.com/jobs 

888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627) 

United EasyCheck-in 

EasyCheck-in kiosks are located 

on the concourse to assist customers 

who have experienced a 

misconnection or canceled fl ight. 

Customers who have e-tickets and 

are traveling domestically may use 

the kiosk to: 

1. Rebook on another fl ight 

2. Obtain a boarding pass 

3. Standby for the next fl ight 

to their destination 

provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events— 

such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a 

discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses 

in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits 

containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. 

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the 

delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations 

(1-800-UNITED-1) to get information on your options. 

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging 

service. If your fl ight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. 

Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united.com for 

information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. 

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business 

and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. 

Eversion: With foot on fl oor, 

gently roll the sole of the foot 

inward. Repeat with other foot. 

Inversion: With foot on fl oor, 

gently roll the sole of the foot 

outward. Repeat with other foot.

IAH 


DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS 

TERMINAL A 

(North Concourse) 

Continental Connection 

Air Canada 

A14 A15 

A12 A11 

A10 A9 

Bus Station (A2) A8 

A2 A1 

3 A7 

A26 A25 

EWR 

United Red Carpet Club 

United First International Lounge 

United Arrivals Suite 

1 

A17 

A18 

A24 

A19 

A20 

TERMINAL A 

(South Concourse) 

US Airways 

B80 

B81A 

B81 

B83A 

B83 

B79A B79 

B77A 

B77 

B76A 

B76 

B68 

B69 

B70 

B71 

B71A 

TERMINAL B 

Continental Express 

United Express 

2 

Station 

2 

B86A 

B87 

B88 

B86 

B85A 

B85 B84A-S 

5 

3 

2 C27 

TerminaLink 

Connects Terminals 

A, B, C, D, & E via train 

2 

(Lower Level) 

3 

B75 

B74 

B73 

B72A 

B72 

B67 

B60 B66 

B61 B65 

B62 B64 

B62A B63A 

B63 

International Arrivals Suite 

United Premier Check-In 

Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop/Train Stop 

HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT 

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. 

C29 

North 

Concourse 

C26 

C25 

Station 

TERMINAL C 

Continental 

United 


C18 

C19 C17 

C20 C16 

C21 C15 

4 

C22 C14 

C23 

C24 

C30 

C31 

C32 

C33 

South 

Concourse 

NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 


3 

3 

? 

C43 

C34 C42 

2 

C35 C41 

C36 C40 

C37 

C39 

2 

2 

? 

USO 

D1 

D2 

D3 

(Lower Level) 

C44 

C45 

TERMINAL D 

Continental 

Lufthansa 

Singapore Airlines 

D4A 

D4 

D5 

D6 

4 2 1 

4 

United Easy Check-In/Customer Service Center 

Medical Center 

Interterminal Train (Security Clearance Required) 

Interterminal Train (Gate to Gate) 

2 

E1 

E2 

E3 

E4 

E5 

2 

E6 

E9 

E8 

E7 

D6A 

D7 

D8 

D9 

E10 

3 

1 

1 

E11 

D10 

D11 

D12 

E12 

TERMINAL E 

Continental 

1 

International 

Arrivals 

2 

Station 

? ? 

3 

E14 

E15 

E16 

E17 

E18 

3 

E19 

E24 

E23 

E22 

E21 

E20

2 

Transfer Shuttle (Gate to Gate) Immigration 

Ticketing/Check-in/Transfer 

Walking Time in Minutes* 

Baggage Claim 

Presidents Club 

Shuttle Stop 

Animal Relief Area 

Customer Service Center 

*Walk times are approximate and may vary depending on individual walking speed and time of day. 

ORD CHICAGO/O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 


TERMINAL 3 

Continental* 

United 


Air Canada 

Gates 68-90 

Concourse K 

Concourse L 

Gates G91-G102 

Concourse G 

Concourse F 

Concourse H 

Concourse M 

Gates 60-67 

TERMINAL 2 

Shuttle 

F14 F12 

F11 

F9 F7 

F5 

F4 

Elevated Airport 

Transport System 

(Lower 

Level) 

F10 

F8F6 

F3 

F2 

F1 

United, ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, 

Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines 

SFO 

TERMINAL 3 

TERMINAL 5 

International 

INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL 

Gates 40-48 

United, Air China, Air New Zealand, 

ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, 

Singapore Airlines, SWISS, Virgin Atlantic 

Concourse E 

Concourse C 

C2 

C1 C4C6C8C10 

C3 

C5 

C7 

C9 C12C16 

C11 

B2 C15 

C18 

B1 

C18A 

C17 

C20 

C19 C22 

C21 

C23 

C25 

C27 

C29 

B3 E10 

E3 

E2A 

E2 

E1A 

E1 B4 

B5B6B7B8 

(Lower Level) 

TERMINAL 2 


Air Canada 

US Airways 

Concourse B 

Transfer Shuttle † 

B9 B10 

B11 

B12 

B13 

B14 

B15 

B16 

B17 

B18 

B19 

B20 

B21 

B22 

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 


Gates A1-A12 

C24 

C26 

C28 

C30 

C32 

C31 

TER MIN A L 1 

Continental † 

US Airways 

Gates 20-36 

*Effective May 10, 2011 

† Through May 9, 2011 

TERMINAL 1 

Continental 

(Gates B1-B4) 

United 


ANA 

Lufthansa 

DEN 

Concourse B 

Continental 

United 


US Airways 

B15 B17 B21 

B16 B18 B22 

Concourse A 

Air Canada 

Lufthansa 

United 


Air Canada 

A2 A4 A6 

C28-C39 

TERMINAL 

WEST 

C40-C50 

Train 

TERMINAL 

EAST 

Concourse C 

B23-B29 B31-B37 B38-B44 B45-B52 B53-B79 

Train 

Gates C1-C28 

A1 A3 A5 

Concourse A 

Continental Express* 


Copa Airlines 

South African Airways 

Virgin Atlantic 


DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 


A24-A39 A40-A53 

A14 

A15 A21 

Z Gates 

US Airways 

1-4 

Pedestrian 

Bridge 

A22 A25 A32 

MAIN TERMINAL 

A58-A68 

IAD WASHINGTON/DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 


Gates D1-D30 

B35-B51 

Shuttle Bus 

B80-B95 

Continental 

United 


B38-B48 

B63-B79 

Concourse B 

ANA 

Austrian Airlines 

Lufthansa 

Scandinavian Airlines 

Turkish Airlines

C20 

C21 

C22 

C23 

C24 

D12 

D14 

43 

44 

45 

42 41 

CLE CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

C18 C17 

C16 

C19 

Gates 

E1-E26 

Pier E 

38 

TERMINAL 2 

37 

36 

Sky Line Train 

Gates 

D1-D54 

Pier D 

C14 

D9 

D8 D7 

D10 ? 

1 

D11 

NRT 

35 

34 

46 47 

TERMINAL 1 

Continental 

United 

Air Canada 

South Wing 

Air China 

ANA 

53 52 

51 

Asiana Airlines 


54 

EGYPTAIR 55 

Lufthansa 


56 


SWISS 

57 

THAI 

Turkish Airlines 

58 

FRA 


C25 C27 

C26 

1 

1 

1 

D17 

3 

1 

C29 

D21 

C11 C9 C7 C5 C3 

1 ? 

2 

C10 C8 C6 C4 

4 

Gates 

C1-C9 

33 

B46 

B45 

B44 

Pier C 

Continental 

United 

Aegean Airlines 

Adria Airways 

Air Canada 

Air China 

ANA 


Concourse C 

Continental 


United 


Air Canada 

Underground Tunnel 

D6 

D5 D4 D3 D2 

Fourth Floor 

32 

2 

1 

31 

B47 

B48 

B42 

B43 

B1-B41 

D25 

Third Floor 

27 26 

B27 

B26 

B28 

B23 B25 

B24 

B22 

B10-B20 

Pier B 

D28 

TERMINAL 1 


Croatia Airlines 

EGYPTAIR 

LOT Polish Airlines 

Lufthansa 



C2 

Concourse D 



US Airways and some Continental international 

flights arrive at Concourse A. 

TOKYO/NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

25 

Pier A 

Gates 

A1-A65 

Pedestrian 

Tunnel 

Satellite 2 

24 

23 

22 

21 

Air New Zealand flights 

arrive/depart at Terminal 2. 

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

1 

(Lower Level) 

North Wing 


Spanair 

SWISS 

TAM Airlines 

TAP Portugal 

THAI 


US Airways 

(Lower Level) 

18 

17 

16 

15 

11 

12 14 

Satellite 1 

Lufthansa Tower Lounge 

(Level 5) 

4 

LAX 

GUM 

TERMINAL 5 

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 


TERMINAL 3 

TO M BRA DL EY 

INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL 

ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, 

Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, 

SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines 

Heathrow Express 

TERMINAL 3 

Air Canada 

Air China 

ANA 

Blue1 

EGYPTAIR 

Emirates 



THAI 



TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 1 

Air Canada US Airways 

Air China 

Air New Zealand 


12 

8 

4B 

61 

60 

63 

62 

65 

64 

67A 66 

67B 68A 

69A 68B 

69B 

71A 

71B 

73 

75A 

75B 

77 

70A 

70B 

72 

74 

76 

80 

81 

82 

83 

84 

85 

86 

87 

88 

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 6 TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8 

Continental United United 

United 

Copa Airlines 

United Express United Express 

GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 

Security 

Checkpoint 

Café 

Food 

Court 

11 

13 15 17 19 

21 

4 5 

20 

5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 16 18 

(Lower Level) 

United 

Aegean Airlines 

Air New Zealand 



Transfer 

Shuttle 

bmi 

Brussels Airlines 

Croatia Airlines 

LOT Polish Airlines 

Lufthansa 

TERMINAL 1 

Secureside and non-secureside 

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TAM Airlines 

TAP Portugal 

US Airways 

TERMINAL 4 

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126 

THE HEMI Q&A: Bear Grylls 

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 46 

“ I remember having done four episodes 

in the fi rst season and thinking, ‘You’ll 

never do more than one season of this.’ 

But I completely love it.” 

GRYLLS: I tell them they’ve got to have a 

backup plan. I’ve always got a backup. You 

might not notice on the TV, but I’m always 

thinking of the worst case scenario. My 

kids don’t see that, so when I find them 

hanging off a tree, I tell them, “Guys, that 

branch goes, you’re dead. Where’s your 

backup plan?” 

HEMISPHERES: Well, my backup plan 

usually involves a sofa. The list of crazy 

things—or, as you might put it, considered 

risks—you’ve done is endless. 

Can you think of something you’ve done 

lately that in retrospect strikes you as a 

little, um, dumb? 

GRYLLS: I was in the Northern Territory 

of Australia a couple of months ago, in the 

swamp there, and the place is just riddled 

with big saltwater crocodiles, really mean 

ones, the ones that can take people off a 

boat and out to sea. I was on a little raft, 

pushing this thing through the swamp, and 

I was trailing a line trying to catch a fi sh. I 

caught one, and as I was pulling it in, I saw 

this croc li up about 30 meters away. He 

looked at me, disappeared and then burst 

out of the water and grabbed the fi sh. 

HEMISPHERES: But not you. 

GRYLLS: Right, but that was not entirely clear 

at the time. I was at sea level with my feet 

in the water on a ra . Not a great situation. 

HEMISPHERES: I’ll say. You come from a 

long line of soldiers, politicians and cricket 

players. Tell me something about your 

background I can actually relate to. 

GRYLLS: My great-grandfather wrote the 

original motivational book, Self Help. Then 

my grandfather got all of these crazy medals 

in the First World War. He was awarded 

the Russian Victoria Cross for amazing 

bravery, which is incredible because he’s 

also got these citations from his commanding 

officers about reckless bravery 

and directly disobeying orders. 

HEMISPHERES: Speaking of reckless bravery, 


did you once do some naked rowing on the 

Thames? 

GRYLLS: I did. A friend lost his legs in a 

climbing accident, and he needed $10,000 

for a set of legs. My best buddy and I said 

we’d row down the Thames in a bathtub, 

naked, the whole length of it, to raise money 

for his prosthetics. We got him his legs. 

HEMISPHERES: You also have this weird 

thing about setting records. For instance, 

you hold the record for highest-altitude 

dinner party, at 25,000 feet. 

GRYLLS: The record thing is an interesting 

aspect of all of these adventures, but 

sometimes with sponsors you need to 

drop a tagline. It’s a necessary evil. What 

motivates me is the adventure, and the 

kind of friendships you make when you’re 

in those situations. 

HEMISPHERES: Are you still working on 

your karate? If we were together in person 

and I asked something that was somewhat 

impertinent or snotty, could you actually 

snap me in half like a dry winter twig? 

GRYLLS: I was one of the youngest seconddegree 

black belts in the country when I 

was about 18. And no, I would not snap 

you in half. 

HEMISPHERES: Do you think humans are 

the most dangerous animals on earth? 

GRYLLS: For sure. They have a combination 

of intelligence and ego that’s always going 

to be dangerous. 

HEMISPHERES: I fi nd it remarkable given 

your lifestyle that you’ve claimed that one 

of the more serious threats to your health 

and well-being is cholesterol. 

GRYLLS: Yeah. It was just a few years ago 

when I learned how to eat healthy. I cut out 

most meat and dairy. I used to eat masses 

of it. Now, when I’m at home, I eat lots 

of raw fruit, vegetables, nuts and wholegrain 

things. 

HEMISPHERES: You once used the desiccated 

remains of a sheep as a sleeping 

bag. That can’t have been good for 

your cholesterol. 

GRYLLS: I did eat a lot of that sheep, including 

its heart, but that’s fi ne. 

HEMISPHERES: You’re 36 years old, you do a 

lot of motivational speaking and write books, 

but it’s all fueled by these trips and these 

adventures. How long can you do this? 

GRYLLS: I remember having done four 

episodes in the fi rst season and thinking, 

“You’ll never do more than one season 

of this, because you’ll either be dead or 

people will be bored.” I don’t know what’s 

happened, but we’re six seasons down the 

line, and I completely love it. 

HEMISPHERES: So what’s on the agenda 

for next season? 

GRYLLS: We’re hopefully doing a boot 

camp series of Man vs. Wild later this year, 

a contest with 10 people who I will train 

and then slowly whi le down. 

HEMISPHERES: I would like not to reserve 

my space for that. I mean, you seem nice, 

but boot camp for survival skills? 

GRYLLS: Everyone thinks I’m a nightmare 

to go on holiday with. 

HEMISPHERES: I was trying to be polite 

about it, but, yes, that was my next question. 

GRYLLS: Listen, I have enough danger, 

drama and excitement at work. When I’m 

at home, I’m just a dad, and I want to be 

kind of cozy and mess around and have 

fun. I don’t want snakes and crocodiles and 

danger. We have picnics. And swimming. 

HEMISPHERES: Swimming in North Wales. 

Again, don’t save me a place. 

GRYLLS: I love swimming in North Wales. 

It’s great. 

HEMISPHERES: I’ll have to take your word 

for that. 

DAVID CARR, who covers media and 

culture for The New York Times, is capable 

of running the length of his body, but only if 

he’s being pursued by something large and 

dangerous.

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128 


HONNOLD ISN’T ALWAYS hanging 

by two fi ngers from death’s doorknob. 

When I met him back in February, 

he had just completed the climbing 

equivalent of a pleasure cruise, what 

he called his Sport Climbing Tour of 

the Antiquities. It started with a sponsor’s 

expedition to Chad, where he 

clambered up Dalían towers of poorquality 

sandstone in the middle of the 

Sahara. Then he climbed in Jordan and 

Israel, and fi nally he met his girlfriend, 

Stacey Pearson, in Turkey. They’ve been 

monkeying around on these limestone 

drip features in idyllic spots (with ropes) 

for nearly two months. 

In Greece, he was wearing a uniform 

of sorts: a red hooded sweatshirt bearing 

the name of his biggest sponsor, The 

North Face, a pair of dark gray pants and 

some badly worn running shoes. His hair 

is mussed and his irises, an odd metallic 

brown, are strikingly large. (Pearson, his 

girlfriend, describes his eyes as “bovine.”) 

His shoulders are broad, his fi ngers are 

expectedly thick. Sitting in his room 

on Kalymnos one night, still wearing 

that red hoodie, he describes himself 

as simply “nondescript.” 

Honnold was born in Sacramento. “He 

could stand up the day he was born,” his 

mother, Deirdre Wolownick, recalls. “He 

could pull himself to his feet, and he had 

huge hands.” At 12, during summer vacation, 

Honnold made his fi rst foray into 

climbing, in the French Alps. A er that, 

his father, Charles, started taking him to 

a local climbing gym. “He would belay 

me for hours,” Honnold says, using the 

climbing term to describe one person 

holding the rope so the other doesn’t hit 


the ground in a fall. “Dad would just be 

down there, looking around, feeding out 

slack.” When his father wasn’t around, 

Honnold would ride his bike 12 miles 

each way to the gym, alone, to climb sideways 

along the contiguous walls—for 

hundreds of lateral feet. With no one to 

belay him, he couldn’t go up or down. “I 

would traverse back and forth across the 

wall,” he says. “I had a Walkman, and I 

would just blast Megadeth and traverse.” 

School was socially diffi cult for him. 

“Heinous,” as he puts it. “I was the world’s 

biggest loser. I wore the same pair of 

sweatpants every day for all of middle 

“THE SAME CONFIDENCE THAT MAKES 

HIM A WORLD-CLASS CLIMBER ALSO 

LEADS HIM TO TAKE SOME FOOLISH 

RISKS,” WORRIES A CLOSE FRIEND. 

school.” But he fared well academically, 

and a er graduating high school with 

straight A’s, he le home in August 2003 

to a end U.C. Berkeley’s college of engineering. 

The summer a er his freshman 

year, however, his father suffered a 

massive heart a ack and died. Honnold, 

who had never taken to college, dropped 

out and entered what he calls his “blue 

period.” “I was alone a lot,” he says. He 

turned to climbing for solace and began 

soloing in earnest in the spring of 2005, 

spending long periods at Joshua Tree 

National Park in Southern California, 

a place peppered with hundreds of 

30- to 300-foot-tall domes that form a 

patchwork of endless climbing routes. 

Without a partner and usually too shy 

to introduce himself to potential ones, 

Honnold set off alone, soloing simple 

routes all day long. “It was just easier 

that way,” he says. 

Soon afterward, he bought a white 

Ford Econoline E-150 and hit the road. 

The van was spartan, and Honnold lived 

like a monk: a rubber mat on the fl oor, 

a thin foam pad on a sheet of plywood 

for a bed, a simple camp stove, a crate 

of books. He’d wake up, make eggs and 

climb all day. Then after a dinner of 

macaroni and cheese and tuna, he’d 

read big books by headlamp until he 

fell asleep. He didn’t drink; still doesn’t. 

He was young, and it seemed as if he 

could hang on forever. 

A year later he got his first taste of 

fame when he soloed two Yosemite 

Valley test pieces, Astroman and the 

Rostrum in a single day. Honnold treats 

this leap as nothing more than a logi- 

cal progression. He had climbed them 

flawlessly multiple times with gear; 

the climbing was secure and suited 

his strengths. He had soloed countless 

shorter routes at similar grades, and he 

knew he wouldn’t fall. The achievement 

was impressive but not unprecedented. 

His 2008 solos of the Moonlight 

Bu ress and the Regular Route on the 

northwest face of Half Dome, however, 

put him indelibly on the climbing map. 

Moonlight is a striking pillar of Navajo 

sandstone streaking 1,200 feet above the 

main road in Zion National Park. Most 

of the climbing happens in a half-inch 

crack that splits the bu ress for nearly 

its entire length. CONTINUED ON PAGE 130

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130 


It’s called a “fi nger crack,” because that’s 

all a climber can get into it. There are 

times when no more than a few square 

inches of the surface of the climber’s 

body is actually in contact with the 

wall. For most people, even highly 

skilled climbers, this is wildly insecure. 

Climbing 1,200 feet of it without a rope 

is inconceivable. 

Half Dome is considered even more 

risky. It is more than 2,000 feet tall, 

and the top is guarded by hard, nearly 

vertical slabs. Up there, the climbing 

happens on features like credit card 

edges and protrusions the shape and 

size of worn pencil erasers, all hanging 

over thousands of feet of empty air. It 

took Honnold two hours and 50 minutes 

to climb all the way up, and it didn’t go 

as planned. On an essentially featureless 

slab near the top, with no easy retreat, 

he froze. He had reversed a sequence, 

pu ing himself out of position to make 

a move. He was “gripped,” genuinely 

scared. He didn’t want to be there. 

Honnold completed the climb, but he 

was so shaken he vowed to stop soloing. 

Yet word of his feat was spreading 

fast. He wound up with 5,000 Facebook 

friends and had to delete his account 

and set up a fan page. He won a threeyear 

contract with The North Face 


and has been featured in ads for Black 

Diamond, climbing rope manufacturer 

Maxim and shoe company La Sportiva. 

A year later, after several bold but 

not death-defying routes, he found his 

confi dence again. Last year he soloed 

a challenging 1,000-foot wall outside of 

Las Vegas with almost no rehearsal. In 

late 2010, he soloed another 1,000-foot 

monolith in Yosemite via a route called 

the Crucifix, which he called his best 

solo yet. In the crux there was no hesitation, 

no fear. “For once I was like, ‘I’m up 

here because I want to be up here,’” he 

says, smiling. “Like, ‘This is cool.’” 

WHAT HE WILL ATTEMPT NEXT is a 

topic of heated speculation in climbing 

circles. Honnold declines to say what his 

plans entail, but most people expect him 

to solo El Capitan, the 3,000-foot wall 

that dominates Yosemite Valley—and, 

“I KNOW THAT IF I DID IT,” HONNOLD SAYS 

OF THE PROSPECT OF FREE-SOLOING 

THE NOTORIOUS EL CAPITAN, “IT WOULD 

BE THE RADDEST THING EVER.” 

as both cradle and crucible, American 

rock climbing’s history. The last thing 

Honnold needs is distraction while 

attempting something near his limit 

of perfect control. But that is part of 

the problem with El Capitan. People 

sit in the meadow below the wall with 

spo ing scopes, watching the seeming 

ants questing on the granite expanse. 

Nonetheless, the wall is on his mind. 

“That’s the elephant in the room,” he 

says. “I know that if I did it, it would be 

the raddest thing ever.” 

It would also be the most perilous 

thing he’s ever attempted in a career 

of astonishingly perilous things, and 

that worries his friends and family. 

Pearson says, “When he talks about 

soloing and the possibility of death he 

always says, ‘Yeah, it would be, like, the 

worst four seconds of my life. But then 

it’s done. He just grazes over the idea.” 

His friend Chris Weidner adds, “I worry 

about him, because there’s a real possibility 

that he will die soon. He takes 

enormous risks, often, and the confidence 

that makes him a world-class 

climber also, in my opinion, leads him to 

take some foolish risks.” His mother 

worries too, but she trusts her son’s 

judgement. “He’s the only one who can 

decide to do it or not,” she says. “I would 

never tell him not to. It would be like 

telling a concert pianist, ‘You know, 

that’s bad for your fi ngers. You’ll end up 

with arthritis.’” 

On Kalymnos one night, the rain provides 

a steady backdrop of white noise. 

The weather has forced Honnold to 

scrap a planned day of climbing. Antsy, 

tired of just si ing there, he gets to his 

feet and mills about in the kitchene e. I 

ask, trying to provoke him, “What would 

failure on a solo mean?” He replies 

without pause, “Plummeting to your 

death.” And a er a beat: “Which would 

be a huge bummer.” It’s semi-ironic, and 

we chuckle at it, but the quip nevertheless 

hangs there in the air for a moment 

against the sound of rainfall. Honnold 

moves across the room. Looking out the 

window into the night, he sighs. “I hope 

we get to go climbing tomorrow.” 

ALEX LOWTHER, a New York–based writer, 

climber and documentary fi lm producer, had 

to promise his mother and girlfriend he would 

not free-solo anything on Kalymnos.

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132 

ACROSS 

1 Summon 

5 Douglas ___ 

8 Great time 

13 A bunch of wolves 

17 Jordin Sparks or 

David Cook 

18 Dug into 

19 Kraft off ering 

20 Pizzazz 

21 Italian coff ee fl avored 

dessert 

23 Resume 

25 Razzed 

26 Student lodging 

27 Lawnmower’s path 

29 Wetness 

31 Gardener’s spring 

purchase 

32 Percolate 

33 Advert 

34 Frosty 

36 Automobile weight (U.K.) 

38 Perfume 

39 MHz 

44 Consequently 

46 A Prius is one 

50 Bad to the bone 

51 Mrs. Sprat’s dietary 

no-no 

52 Not a soul 

54 “The best things in 

life ___ free” 

55 A nonmetallic element 

used in photocells 

57 Shine 

59 It’s got you covered 

60 “Go on...” 

61 Deprive of courage 

63 Clunker 

64 Storm 

66 Elderly 

67 Concur 

69 Calendar square 

70 Bright red 

74 Spring month 

75 Rock bottom 

78 Soak (up) 

81 Hamster’s home 

82 Part of a spur 

84 Mountain road concern 

86 Road map abbr. 

87 Kitchen light 

89 Reebok rival 

90 La Scala highlight 


CROSSWORD 

GREEN LITE 

BY GREG BRUCE 

91 Cut back 

95 Orpheus’ instrument 

96 Faux 

98 Mother-of-pearl 

100 The life of Riley 

102 Surfi ng site 

103 Bother 

105 Hardly wimpy 

107 Luxurious 

111 An inclination for 

113 The smell of tainted meat 

114 Bumble 

116 Dubai dignitary 

117 An afternoon treat 

119 Heart action 

121 Was present 

122 Pottery fi nish 

123 Decompose 

124 Crucifi x 

125 Was aware of 

126 Church offi cial 

127 The loneliest number 

128 Violist’s clef 

DOWN 

1 Safari helmet 

2 “So long” 

3 A golden fl owered shrub 

4 Make beam 

5 Flunk 

6 “___ magic!” 

7 Reprocess 

8 Religious sect 

9 Mascara site 

10 Symbol of industriousness 

11 Con game 

12 Pharynx 

13 Throw out of kilter 

14 Vocally 

15 Inner circle 

16 Patella’s place 

22 Field doctor 

23 Speed contest 

24 Cultivated land 

28 Come to 

30 Destroy 

32 Secondary school 

35 Piston chamber 

37 Irish accent 

38 Five-star 

39 Arizona city 

40 Knotted up 

41 Cover with gold leaf 

42 Tankard fi ller 

43 Dalai ___ 

45 Like some eggs 

47 Yard tool 

48 Fleur-de-lis 

49 Impression 

53 Break bread 

56 Zero 

58 Treatment option 

59 Snoop 

62 Videlicet 

63 Moisture less 

65 Grade papers 

66 Smelter input 

68 In abundance 

70 Leave a mark on 

71 Bat’s home 

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD 

If you fi ll in the crossword please take the 

magazine with you so it’s replaced. // 

Answers found on page 63 

72 Got gray 

73 Beat 

76 Jack-in-the-pulpit, e.g. 

77 A dotted, two squared tile 

78 Hindu garment 

79 Hodgepodge 

80 Think ahead 

83 Sly trick 

85 ___ Tuesday (Mardi Gras) 

88 A beverage shop worker 

89 Fragment 

92 Loosen by turning 

93 Hard currency 

94 Enthusiastic approval 

97 Country album? 

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99 Go back on 

101 Identical 

103 Hercules 

104 Cartoon art 

106 Water power 

108 Extreme 

109 A bar seat 

110 Serf 

111 Eat like a bird 

112 Towering 

113 It’s often fi xed 

114 Kismet 

115 Start over 

118 Lowlife 

120 Charged particle 

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THE LEADERS IN 

TM 

CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME 

U.S and foreign patients travel to the world renowned Brown Hand Center TM across America, 

inventors of The Brown Procedure® Endoscopic Carpal Tunnel Release and leaders in Hand/Upper extremity care. 

OPEN CARPAL TUNNEL 

First described in 1947 

NORMAL tissue layers are sliced through in 

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Stitches for closure of wound 

Often, a painful scar results that can be permanent 

Recovery can take 6 weeks to 6 months or NEVER 

Considered by many to be antiquated, The Brown Procedure 

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Since 1988, BROWN HAND CENTER has been the destination of choice for patients from around the world who expect world-class comfort and care. 

BROWN HAND CENTER is where The Brown Procedure was developed and where so many published medical journal articles originated, answering 

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possible, the approach is minimally invasive to reduce patient pain, suffering and recovery time. The Brown Endoscopic Trigger Release (BETR) is another of 

the many innovations from Brown Hand Center used to treat a common problem, trigger finger. Similar to The Brown Procedure, The BETR utilizes two 

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Brown Hand Center 

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Nationwide Locations 

 

 

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BROWN HAND CENTER physicians, specialists in hand and upper extremity care, are available 24/7. 

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Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.858.6526

136 


IN TRANSIT 

“ All parents 

should travel 

with their 

children. You 

never get that 

chance again.” 

Ge ing to Know You 

Tracy 

and Laura 

Russell 

Mother and daughter, 

46 and 16 

Why we’re traveling 

Tracy: “We’re on our way home 

to New Zealand a er a trip to 

Pi sburgh to visit a pen friend 

I’ve had since I was 10. It was very 

emotional.” 

What we did 

Laura: “I visited a high school 

and went to a bonfi re and basketball 

games.” 

Why we did it 

Tracy: “I would recommend 

that all parents travel with their 

children before they leave high 

school. You never get that chance 

again. It’s something special.” 

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND 

PHOTOGRAPH BY SASHA NIALLA

premium 

offerings 

Escape into an exotic 

atmosphere and enjoy 

the legendary cuisine 

of Trader Vic’s, created 

especially for you. 

Doug Frost 

United’s distinguished Master Sommelier 

and Master of Wine 

BUSHMAN’S GULLY SHIRAZ 2010 – AUSTRALIAN SHIRAZ has been justly 

famed for years, but there are differing styles of Aussie Shiraz and many 

different levels of quality. The style of our Bushman’s Gully Shiraz is not only 

fruit forward (a given for Australia), it also carries the spice of barrels (mostly 

American oak) and the rich, dark and concentrated fruits typical of the Shiraz 

grape Down Under, balanced by a strong measure of tangy red fruits. 

 

With a food philosophy centered 

around contemporary American 

cuisine and culinary partnerships 

which include world renowned Chef 

Charlie Trotter and restaurant favorite 

Trader Vic’s, United offers traditional 

dishes with a modern twist, while also 

providing regional and ethnic items. 

TRADER VIC’S BEEF AND REEF 

Stir-fried beef tenderloin, succulent prawns and 

fresh mixed vegetables with black pepper teriyaki 

sauce over steamed rice (pictured here) 

What’s New? 

Want to be island-inspired? Try one 

of our new Trader Vic’s entrees on 

United First ® flights between Hawaii 

and the U.S. mainland beginning 

April 14. Enjoy Polynesian fare featuring 

delicious beef, chicken or fish 

entrees with signature sauces and 

tropical accompaniments.

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH 

AMERICAN FLIGHTS, EXCLUDING UNITED EXPRESS. ® 

à la carte 

ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 

2 HOURS 

breakfast 

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS 

OVER 3 HOURS 

lunch 

& dinner 

ON MOST AFTERNOON 

AND EVENING FLIGHTS 

OVER 3 HOURS 

 

$4.99 (6 oz. can) 

 

$2.99 (2.6 oz. can) 

 

$2.99 (4 oz box) 

 

$2.99(3 mini buns) 

$5.49 

A cool, crunchy combination of vanilla yogurt 

with mixed berries and granola. 

$5.79 

Served with dijonnaise sauce 

(served cold). 

$8.59 

A healthy combination of grilled chicken 

breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, and red and 

yellow bell peppers wrapped in a tortilla with 

Thai aioli sauce. 

$7.99 

Smoked turkey with provolone cheese and 

lettuce on a pretzel roll with a stoneground 

mustard mayo sauce. 

$7.49 

A delicious selection of muenster, cheddar, 

gouda and brie cheeses, crackers, dried fruit 

and pecan halves. 

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods 

served on our flights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in 

facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do 

have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios. 

 

$2.99(3 mini buns) 

ASIAN NOODLE SALAD 

$7.49 

A delicious selection of muenster, cheddar, 

gouda and brie cheeses, crackers, dried fruit 

and pecan halves. 

$5.49 

A chilled noodle salad topped with stir-fried 

vegetables, sweet chile chicken breast and 

green onions. 

 

$9.49 

A healthy choice of grilled chicken, cherry 

tomatoes and carrots over spinach and 

romaine lettuce, topped off with crispy onions 

and served with balsamic vinaigrette. 

 

Your feedback is welcomed via within seven days of your 

flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All 

other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if 

your selection is not available on today’s flight.

snack boxes 

ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS 

TAPAS $8.49 

CLASSIC $7.49 

SAVORY $7.29 

PREMIUM COCKTAIL $ 9 

Trader Vic’s ® 

Mai Tai 

Sip your way to paradise 

with this iconic tropical 

cocktail. Exclusively 

available on flights 

to/from Hawaii. 

• Oloves Marinated Olives 

• Milas ® Artichoke and Red Pepper Spread 

• Wild Garden Hummus 

• Rondelé ® Peppercorn Parmesan 

Cheese Spread 

• Fratelli Laurieri Scrocchi 

Al Rosmarino Crackers 

• Jacobs ® Cream Crackers 

• Partners ® Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers 

• Emerald ® Natural Almonds 

• Fantis ® Ouzo Candy Mint 

• Snyder’s ® of Hanover Mini Pretzels 

• Crackers 

• Pepperidge Farm ® Goldfish 

• Hormel Homeland ® Hard Salami 

• Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread 

• Jelly Belly ® Assorted Flavors 

• Chips Ahoy 100-Calorie Thin Crisps 

• Tortilla Chips 

• Mild Salsa 

• Granola Bar 

• Fruit & Nut Mix 

• Dark Chocolate Covered Pretzel 

A portion of the profits from the sale of the snack boxes will benefit 

United-sponsored breast cancer support and research charities. 

beverages 

Available on most United flights. Selections may vary 

according to availability, class of service or destination. 

NON-ALCOHOLIC 

Complimentary on all United flights. 

AVAILABLE ON MOST FLIGHTS 

• Coca-Cola, ® Coca-Cola 

Zero, ® Diet Coke ® 

• Aquarius ® Purified Water 

• Minute Maid ® : Cranberry 

Apple Juice Cocktail, 

Orange Juice 

• Mott’s ® Apple Juice, 

Tomato Juice 

• Mr. & Mrs. T’s ® 

Bloody Mary Mix 

• Seagram’s ® : Ginger Ale, 

Seltzer Water, Tonic Water 

• Sprite, ® Sprite Zero ® 

• Starbucks Coffee 

(Regular & Decaffeinated) 

• Bigelow ® Hot Tea 

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES 

Complimentary in United Business ® and United First. ® Priced as 

shown in United Economy, ® complimentary in the Pacific regions. 

BEER $ 6 


Miller ® Lite, Miller ® Genuine Draft, Heineken ® 

HOUSE WINES $ 7 


• Hayes Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 California 

• Hayes Ranch Chardonnay 2009 California 

DOMESTIC PREMIUM CABIN WINES 

• Canyon Road Merlot 2009 California 

• Bridlewood Chardonnay 2008 Monterey 

Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable. 

SPIRITS $ 7 


• Bacardi ® Rum 

• Canadian Club ® 

Reserve Whisky 

• Jack Daniel’s ® 

Tennessee Whiskey 

• Jim Beam Black ® 

Bourbon Whiskey 

AVAILABLE ON SELECT FLIGHTS 

• Absolut ® Vodka 

• Chivas Regal Blended 

Scotch Whiskey ® 

• Dewar’s ® • Finlandia 

White 

Label Scotch 

® Vodka 

• The Glenlivet ® 12 Year Old 

Single Malt Scotch 

• Tanqueray ® Gin 

LIQUEURS $ 7 


• Baileys ® Irish Cream 

• Courvoisier ® VSOP Cognac 

AVAILABLE ON SELECT FLIGHTS 

• Disaronno ® Amaretto 

• Kahlúa ® 

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, 

we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. 

Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during 

service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight 

attendants may be consumed onboard.

may-2011

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